Kitsch'n: Food & Drink Stuff

Retropolitan Brisket

2009-06-08T15:14:00.002-04:00

For our cookbook-in-the-works, Retropolitan Brisket, we are looking for recipes from chefs, winemakers, mixologists and others in the industry, including those who don't cook professionally (like wine and pr reps) but who just may happen to have a great recipe in his/her possession.

"Brisket" is defined as, and includes: Jewish/Eastern European braised pot roast; spiced pastrami; Irish corned beef; the Texas/Southern smoked or bbq'ed version; and the invented kind (everything from salmon pastrami to mutton pot roast).

We are especially looking for recipes that not only make a whole brisket or corned beef, but rework it in some fashion--as in pulled brisket tacos, or corned beef-and-cabbage spring rolls. Recipes for side dishes that go with brisket--cucumber salad? rosemary-roasted potatoes?--are also welcome.

Please feel free to send us the stories about who gave you your recipe, be it Grandma, Aunt Ida, Cousin Joe Bob, etc., as well as tips for slicing, serving, and eating brisket. All recipes will be properly credited, with head notes generously mentioning books, restaurants and other information.

While our book is currently in its proposal stage, in the hands of our agent in NYC, you can rest assured that your recipe will be in good company. We have already secured agreements and recipes from chefs including Michelle Bernstein, Elizabeth Karmel, Michael Mina, Michael Lomonaco and Allen Susser, among others that we have written and received from family members and esteemed food writers.

You may pass this call for recipes on or post this. We appreciate all your help and generosity in bringing this book to life.

Many, many thanks!

Betsy and Jen

Under Construction

2009-01-14T13:46:00.004-05:00

Announcing a revamp: You may have noticed that I haven't blogged since April 2008. That's when things got really busy for me. So I froze the site. Well, get ready for a thaw. AND a huge sea change.

Some of you know, but most of you don't, that my sister, Betsy Karetnick, works for Martha Stewart Living Sirius Satellite Radio. Yup, she's obsessed with food, too. But in a kinder, gentler, more home-cooked way. Betsy co-hosts the morning drive show and also does a mid-day hour totally devoted to how to make dinner for the family. She's also my best friend, and we've been cooking ambitious dishes together since she was 10 and I was her 8-year-old sous chef. In fact, one of my most memorable experiences came at her hands when she decided we'd make a deboned capon stuffed with wild rice and its own liver, then crowned with a pastry shell, for my parents' anniversary one year. Guess who got to debone and remove the organs from the capon, and guess who got to make the pastry shell? I still recall those joints popping.

At any rate, Betsy is linking up with me and we're going to be completely redoing Kitsch'n to reflect our personalities--their similarities AND their differences. We'll be commenting on the culinary connections between NYC and Miami. We'll take turns blogging. We'll review books--having actually cooked from them. We'll review restaurants, together and separately. We'll publish our own well-tested recipes (mine will be the mango ones, natch). And we'll gossip about her guests and my print interviewies, some of whom turn out to be one and the same--albeit not always at the same time.

We're not quite ready to begin yet, but when we are, trust us: You'll smell that delicious perfume of collaboration from wherever you are.

As Promised...

2008-04-17T11:19:00.002-04:00

The scuttlebutt--make that spin--on the Michael's Kitchen dissolvement. And I quote:

"The Newport Beachside Hotel & Resort and Chef Michael Blum of Michael’s Kitchen have mutually agreed to dissolve their joint partnership. The restaurant will remain open, operating under the name 'Kitchen 305,' with Kelly Sheehan at the helm. Greg Emersic, Restaurant General Manager, will be at the helm of daily operations to oversee the smooth transition and ensure that the experienced culinary team continues to produce at the superior level to which it is currently accustomed.

The Newport Beachside Hotel & Resort believes that Blum’s talent and passion for cuisine will bring him continued success. However, the team’s inability to find a common ground on varying issues ultimately led to the severed partnership. More information about Kitchen 305 will follow shortly."

Any q's, you'll have to wait 'til I eat there, and/or Michael Blum resurfaces.

Mark Reduces

2008-04-13T09:52:00.003-04:00

and we're not talking sauces, either. Mark Militello has closed both Mark's South Beach and his restaurant in CityPlace, cutting his empire in half. Of course, he also effectively cuts his commute in half, too, leaving him the Las Olas-Boca route only. With the way gas prices are these days, maybe that was the plan, hmm?

Nah.

Another Michael on the Loose

2008-04-12T15:46:00.005-04:00

In the be careful what you Wish for category... exec chef Michael Bloise is now formerly of the restaurant by that name, located in The Hotel. He and Wish parted ways a few weeks ago, after nearly five years. I just ran into this easygoing guy, a 1998 grad of Johnson and Wales, while helping to judge the high school scholarship competition at that university. And I've heard that while he's been happily puttering around his Hollywood house, fixing up things he never got a chance to attend to while cooking day and night, he's ready to get back to work.

From a critic's point of view? Bloise is a catch. If I were a restaurateur, I'd be dangling a line with some really tasty bait right about now.

The Cure for Michael's Kitchen

2008-04-10T11:59:00.009-04:00

I've been hearing some fabulously juicy rumors about why chef Michael Blum is no longer at the helm of his eponymous Kitchen in the Newport Beachside Hotel & Resort. Hot on the heels of the New Times Broward/Palm Beach expose about his erstwhile Hollywood restaurant of the same name, detailing his bankruptcy, loans and lawsuits against him, his departure has led diners to believe it was backlash from the article. (This despite Robert Cornfeld, whose family owns the Newport, going on record in the piece by saying "he doesn't worry about Michael Blum either. 'He's hard-working, honest, talented, personable, trustworthy. I'm surprised' — sigh — 'that certain people feel they're not going to get a fair deal from him.'")

Others assume bad reviews caused an ousting of the "Cure for Boring Food" chef who likes his presentations with smoke and mirrors, if not downright set on fire. To be fair, I've had many meals at Michael Blum's places over the years, and have given him some critical press myself. But I did think he was hitting his stride, style-wise, at the Newport. (For a good discussion, see what my fellow foodies had to say about him on Chowhound--though keep in mind not all of them had actually dined there.)

I've also been told a really colorful, convoluted tale involving the Russian mafia.

The truth, according to the Newport Beachside Hotel & Resort rep, isn't ready for public consumption yet, barring details that have to be worked out about a new menu, name change to the restaurant, etc. But when the press release is issued next week, we'll see the reason for the beheading of Michael's Kitchen is a lot more mundane than everyone suspects.

Bummer, I know. The Russkies make for a much better story.

Another Expat Update

2008-04-02T18:17:00.004-04:00

Despite repeated requests to tell all, I've been mum on the subject of my great friend, chef Willis Loughhead, ex-Bizcaya in the Ritz-Carlton, Coconut Grove and ex-Tantra, who moved to NYC a few years ago to help launch The Modern in the MOMA--which won two James Beard Awards its first year. He had taken a sabbatical afterward for a year, during which he traveled, and then was a journeyman chef for another year. Now he's back in the city, and has recently announced his position as head chef at Geoffrey Zakarian's Country. Ok? So stop asking me! Just kidding. For a little insight into his menu plans, see http://nymag.com/daily/food/2008/04/new_country_chef_to_implement.html#comment-list.

James Beard News

2008-03-25T12:25:00.006-04:00

The kids went back to school today, which means I can break my non-self-imposed spring break silence with some really good news.

First, we've got two hometown chefs nominated for the JB Best Chef: South Award: Michelle Bernstein of Michy's and Douglas Rodriguez of OLA. This is the second year in a row for Michelle, which just might give her the edge, says Chef Doug, but he's truly thrilled to be nominated. I'm psyched for both. This is also the second year in a row we've had 2 Magic City chefs up for the honor.

Second, Zach Bell from Cafe Boulud in Palm Beach is also a nominee for Best Chef: South, making that 3 for the tri-county region. And rounding out the category is chef Chris Hastings from the Hot & Hot Fish Club in Birmingham, Alabama. He may not be from Florida, but four times a year he leads culinary tours to the Forgotten Coast--that's Apalachicola, thereabouts. I went with him last year and had a blast catching crabs and raking my own oysters, which he then cooked.

Third, Maricel Presilla, columnist for the Miami Herald, who has Cucharamama in New Jersey, won herself a nod in the Mid-Atlantic category.

Fourth, Lyn Farmer, the Champagne expert at the Wine News (where I'm features editor), a national mag that's based in Coral Gables, just garnered his third nomination for a piece that all the editors worked long and hard on this past December.

I dare anyone not to take South Florida seriously now.

Food Writers at the Mike II

2008-03-10T10:45:00.003-04:00

I read from my food-related poetry chapbook, Necessary Salt, at the inaugural Food Writers at the Mike last year, and had a blast. But it was almost more fun to listen to the other writers--what a great quartet of perspectives. I'm sure this year will be the same, with the added benefit of a dessert buffet. Here's all the info:

Second Annual Food Writers at the Mike

Reservations are now being accepted for Slow Food Miami's Food Writers at the Mike on Wednesday, March 19 at 7:30 p.m. at GableStage in Coral Gables. This unique fundraiser features four South Florida food writers and special guest Molly O'Neill, who will share their personal reflections on food writing, its significance and its special artistry. The conversation begun on the stage will continue over an elegant dessert buffet and book signing with the authors in the Aragon Room of the Biltmore. Information about the participating authors is below.

This special opportunity to explore the magic of food writing is a collaboration of Slow Food Miami, GableStage and Books & Books. Tickets for this literary and culinary event are $45 and include both the premiere writers event andthe dessert reception. Proceeds benefit Slow Food Miami's extensive educational programs. ( <http://www.slowfoodmiami.com/">http://www.slowfoodmiami.com/>http://www.slowfoodmiami.com/).

PARTICIPATING AUTHORS AND MODERATOR

Special Guest, Molly O'Neill, the New York Times food columnist for over a decade, host of the PBS series Great Food and cookbook auteur, will speakabout her newest book, American Food Writing: An Anthology: With ClassicRecipes. Her book is a literary cornucopia of classic accounts of iconic American foods and the view from abroad: Henry David Thoreau on the delights of watermelon; Herman Melville, on clam chowder; H. L. Mencken on the hotdog; M.F.K. Fisher in praise of the oyster; Ralph Ellison on the irresistibility of the baked yam. O'Neill has been nominated twice for the Pulitzer Prize. Her first book, The New York Cookbook, won both the JuliaChild/IACP and James Beard awards.

Marcel Escoffier, grand-nephew of the great chef George August Escoffier, is a food historian, author and associate professor at the School ofHospitality Management at Florida International University. He has more than 30 years of experience working in hotels and restaurants throughout theUnited States. He started out at 14 polishing copper pots and has since held virtually every position in today's modern kitchen as well as having been an executive in hotel administration.

Linda Gassenheimer is a TV and radio personality, syndicated journalist, best-selling author, spokesperson, and food consultant. She writes a weekly Dinner in Minutes newspaper column and produces and hosts the radio program Food News and Views each week on WLRN. The author of several books, she will speak about her newest, The Portion Plan: How to Eat the Foods You Love and Still Lose Weight.

Ana Quincoces is a Miami attorney whose book, Cuban Chicks Can Cook, was her entree onto the food stage. She considers her book, full of recipes andrecipes, an updated version of the classic Cocina Criolla. However, she says, revisiting the book wasn't a matter of "adding mango sauce to everything and calling it Cuban.''

Helen Willinsky is the author of Jerk from Jamaica. In addition to her studies in France and at the University of Barcelona, she attended L' Ecole Hoteliere in Lausanne, Switzerland. Throughout a long career as a hotel manager, bakery owner and author, Willinsky has made Jamaican jerk spices a cornerstone of her personal and professional life. She owns Helen's Tropical Exotics, a spice company that supplies jerk and other seasonings to a variety of restaurant chains.

Moderator Nancy Ancrum writes The Cultural Kitchen column that appears in Miami Herald, where she also is a member of the editorial board -- and is co-host of the radio program Join Us at the Table, on WMCU 1080-AM. She also is the founder of Curated Dining, which offers culinary-dining experiences. A Slow Food member, she has helped organize Food Writers at the Mike.

Rumor Has It II

2008-03-10T10:44:00.004-04:00

... and that Andrew Rothschild, ex-Forge, is now also ex-Bourbon, the Michael Mina property in Aventura where he was exec chef. No replacement named as of yet; right now, the kitchen's in corporate hands 'til they figure out the direction they want to go.

Rumor Has It

2008-03-07T09:10:00.004-05:00

Jason at the Harrison on South Beach... is now just the Harrison... or something...

I heard last night, while at the Ritz-Carlton, Coconut Grove bash to introduce the new Bizcaya chef/menu, that Jason McClain is no longer at the South Beach place. This is, of course, right after Linda Gassenheimer and I discussed him on the radio. Whoops. Although I have to say, that was fast. He was there for like, what, a month? The press release announcing Jason at the Harrison is dated February 3. Do your own math. I'm no good at it.

A Star Chef's Next Move

2008-03-06T10:40:00.004-05:00

It's no doubt awkward for a chef to be named a Rising Star by StarChefs for work at a restaurant that he no longer represents. Such was the case with Alberto Cabrera, formerly of Karu & Y, at the South Florida Star Chefs Rising Star Revue on Monday Night in West Palm Beach. Or was it?

Cabrera, as it turns out, is already making a smooth transition into his next establishment, which he will also own. Called Puro, the restaurant will be sourced by a farm that Cabrera and partner plan to buy in the Redland/Homestead area. The fare will be sustainable, natural, as fresh as possible--and very, very Cuban, as per the chef's roots.

"I told Michael Schwartz [of Michael's Genuine] I'm stealing his idea," Cabrera laughed. But in fact he's taking it one step further, not only by controlling his own food supply but by raising it himself. He's even going to be looking into livestock, especially pigs and goats. Big plans, yes, but hometown boy Cabrera, who says he knows every nook and cranny of Miami, is the one to lead us diners into Generation Green.

Puro is expected to open in 2009.

Where the Euro-Lawyers Go

2008-03-02T22:02:00.004-05:00

I have to admit, the opening of Badrutt's Place, the new, pre-lauded downtown eatery that's modeled on the famous Swiss haunt, scared the crap out of me. I haven't seen so many lawyers in one place since my arraignment (haha, just kidding. Sort of.) The house music was thumping the same four bars on repeat, the badly dressed folks who apparently thought they were there for a wedding were jostling for space at the bar, and the whole vibe felt like someone had been handing out flyers for the fete at Brickell brokerage firms. Needless to say, I couldn't find any food, and skedaddled for a pizza before long.

However, a friend I trust--fellow alumni from Tufts--says the food is really good, and he is taking me for lunch next week so I can see for myself. He also claims the atmosphere is completely different from what the snooty velvet rope-blocked debut led me to believe. If that's true, then Badrutt's shot itself in the proverbial foot with its nightclub-like do; trust me, any media there got the same impression I did. Anyone remember Bambu?

Hitting the Thirty Mile Zone

2008-02-27T18:14:00.003-05:00

Footage from the South Beach Wine and Food Festival, featuring Jamie Oliver, has been posted on TMZ.com. (http://www.tmz.com/tmz_main_video?titleid=1435436975) Forget every single food mag and style rag the Festival aspires to. This is Hollywood, baby! I don't think Aspen has hit the Thirty Mile Zone yet. Just goes to show, when it comes to gossip, South Beach has got it going on. And that's so much better than burgers.

Wine and Food Wrap-Up

2008-02-26T08:30:00.005-05:00

This year's South Beach Wine & Food was hot. Hot heat-wise--those tents on the beach can cook you as much as the chefs cook the food--and hot happening-wise. I do think this might have been the most festive and fun year yet, even better than the five-year anniversary bash. Among the events I attended, Rachel Ray's Burger Bash and Wine Spectator's Best of the Best were two that I felt gave the most value-for-money, and--unusual for me--I actually stayed to the very end of both.

But more than the parties, I like the tidbits of info I uncover at these fetes. For instance, at Burger Bash, Marcus Samuelsson revealed, along with his BBQ burger with pickled jalapeno and daikon radish slaw, that he's opening Marc Burger at Macy's in June. Another reason to go to NYC to shop! As if I needed one. I'm not kidding that I went home at the end of that weekend and cleaned out my closets in anticipation... 5 Hefty bags of stuff now up for grabs...

For interesting restaurant news closer to home, I found out at Best of the Best that Pacific Time is timely again. Chef-owner Jonathan Eismann was serving up one of his specialties, a crab-avocado terrine with Cantonese black bean vinaigrette. He was also introducing his general manager, Jennifer Warren, and says his new Pacific Time--he's keeping the name from South Beach--will debut in about three months in the Design District.

In addition, I had the opportunity to chat with Scott Conant, a NY chef who specializes in regional Italian cuisine. He's going to be opening in the Fontainebleau Miami Beach, whifch as you know has been undergoing a massive renovation (and which is where Best of the Best has formerly been held and will be again starting with next year). Name and date are "still up in the air," he says, but he's thinking Sprezza and October. In the meantime, he's got another restaurant to open in Manhattan and a book coming out in April.

Speaking of the Fontainebleau, Alfred Portale, who is opening Gotham Steak there, was also checking out Best of the Best with his daughter in tow. A brief conversation with him yielded little else but that his restaurant is on track. (A third restaurant, Vida by chef Sean O'Connell, will also be debuting in the hotel.)

As for where the out-of-town chefs like Michael Lomonaco (Porter House) went to eat and party after their work was done, one name stood out time and again: Michael Schwartz's American bistro Michael's Genuine, which was just named to NYTimes writer Frank Bruni's top 10 best new restaurants list. The nightly see-and-be-scenes took me back to the first-ever South Beach Wine and Food, when a bunch of us gathered with visiting chefs and winemakers at Nemo, when Michael Schwartz was chef-owner there, for the event postmortem. It's the one constant about Miami's food scene, and the counterintuitive reason I, for one, am fascinated by it: The more things change, the more they stay the same.

Don't Call It San Loco

2008-02-21T13:07:00.004-05:00

Yup, our fave taco bar has changed names again. After briefly referring to itself as Loco Taqueria, the joint is now T-Mex (as in a pun on the dinosaur, T-Rex), says the Fort Lauderdale branch.

No worries, though: The taco and guaco locos remain the same. Thanks be.

North Dade: Barbecue Central?

2008-02-21T13:00:00.004-05:00

With three barbecue places on the way, North Miami-Dade looks like its getting its ribs on. Watch for the following:

Barbecue Beach in the old Roadhouse Grill on Biscayne Blvd. just north of 125th Street

Bulldog Barbecue, run by Howie Kleinberg (of Food Gang and Top Chef fame), at 15400 Biscayne Blvd.

City Barbecue on 163rd St.

and, lest you forget, North One 10 is still running its popular Beer-and-Barbecue Friday night feasts. My visiting folks just had it and gave it mucho props. And if you think I'm a tough critic, lemme tell you, you've never met the source.

Hello DiBono, Goodbye Bagels

2008-02-19T17:03:00.004-05:00

Passersby might notice that the sign on the front of Louie's Brick Oven Pizza restaurant now reads DiBono's Italian Cafe. I've yet to stop in to see if the menu has changed, but Louie's was named for owner Lou DiBono in the first place, so the remake of the moniker may just be strategical, to reflect that over the last 2 years or so the place has become much more than a pizza joint. I've been dining there with my kids a lot lately--they enjoy the pastas, and I can't argue with the mountainous salads and pile of chicken wings served. Plus we get an extra meal out of the leftovers, which means there's hidden value in it. So if the change is a draw to get customers, I hope there's some success in it.

On the other hand, I always enjoy a good menu redo, too. Except when it includes raising the prices astronomically, the way Bagels and Co. (what we fondly call Guns 'n' Bagels, 'cause it's next to the gun shop) just did. Omelets are now nine bucks, and deli sandwiches hover between $16-19. Breakfast for four cost us more than $50 the other day. It's a weird world when going out for bagels has become a pricey treat, but dinner is economical.

Competition for Best of the Best?

2008-02-13T11:10:00.004-05:00

Note that this wine dinner, hosted by Eddy Le Garrec and Sergio Caceres, takes place on the same night that the South Beach Wine and Food Festival's "Best of the Best" event does: Friday February 23rd. You might think the choice would be easy--all those superior bottlings and sumptuous bites at Best of the Best easily trumps a mere 7-course din-din at the Setai. But check out these vintages! In fact, take a gander at the entire menu below.

Admittedly, the $850 price tag is a bit outrageous. But it also includes a Champagne reception, featuring Champagne Tzarine. To end dinner, there will be a glass of the exceptional Louis XIII de Remy Martin – Grande Champagne Cognac, along with some handmade cigar from Dominican Republic. And there will also be a raffle of a Magnum of Chateau Petrus 1998, 100 Pts Wine Spec., with a value of $4000.00.

So if you've got it, you just might want to spend it--and THEN head over to Best of the Best.

Menu by Jonathan Wright

Salad of Scallops, Langoustines and Oysters Thai Style; Château “Y” D’Yquem 2005

Seared Tuna Belly, Sweet Shallot Puree Black Currant Eucalyptus Vinaigrette; Château Latour 1993

Roasted Rib of Four Storey Hills Farm Lamb Smoked Pimentos with Confit Fennel Goat’s Milk and Cardamon Foam; Château Mouton Rothschild Pauillac 1971

Roasted Foie Gras with Caramelized Mango Jamaican Pepper; Château Margaux 1995, 100 Pts Wine Spec.

Cured Kobe Short Rib with Enoki Mushrooms Red Wine Braised Onions with Bone Marrow, Oxtail Bouillon; Château Lafite Rothschild 1998, 98 Pts R. Parker

Roasted Millbrook Farms Venison Pumpkin Puree with Liquorice and Preserved Lemon Juniper Reduction, Almond Emulsion; Château Haut-Brion 2001, 95 Pts wine Spec.

Chocolat and Mandarin Encerraditos Mandarin Sorbet, Campari Jelly; Château D’ Yquem 2001, 100 Pts R. Parker

RSVP 305/673-8282

The Origin of Origin

2008-02-11T15:24:00.000-05:00

Yup, it's open. The new location of Origin Asian Bistro, located in Key Colony Plaza, debuted last week. Sibling to the one in South Miami, which actually launched on South Beach but improved when it moved to its second site, this venture on Key Biscayne has the same extensive pan-Asian menu and sushi. Smart, this--there's a lock-down, captive audience comprising both locals and visitors of all ages that will no doubt appreciate the versatility, and the fact that they don't have to cross the causeway to get to it.

Expat Update II

2008-02-11T10:10:00.000-05:00

More about Klime Kovaceski--just in case you couldn't get enough... from Point of Vue magazine, about the organic nature of his new eatery:

http://www.povhouma.com/Articles/2008/02_February/cv_02_0208.html

Bye Bye Karu & Y

2008-02-09T13:20:00.000-05:00

Ok, just Karu is, as my friend Ellen puts it, "roadkill"; Y Ultralounge will operate 3 nights per week. And the situation is just for now, the Miami Herald is reporting (http://www.miamiherald.com/358/story/412712.html). After a $3 million lounge renovation--why that's necessary is a mystery when the $25 mil venue opened less than a year and a half ago--a new Mediterranean menu, from a name chef, will debut this spring. Apparently there's another money backer coming into play.

Uh-huh. I'll believe that when david bouley evolution re-opens.

Meanwhile, ousted chef Alberto Cabrera will be celebrated at the StarChefs Rising Stars Chef Awards March 3, at Mar-a-Lago. Page down to the "featured event" on this blog for more info, and see you there.

Expat Update

2008-02-07T11:49:00.000-05:00

They’re gone but not forgotten. And fortunately, they like to keep in touch. Drop by if you’re around their environs, and tell ‘em Kavetchnik sent ya:

Frank Copestick, ex-Red Square chef, is head of a new place in Chesapeake, Virginia, called Passion the Restaurant. Seems appropriate for V-Day, no? Dishes include Roasted Rockfish - with “Dave and Dee’s” oyster mushroom risotto and local roasted beet vinaigrette; Turbans of Winter Flounder - with matchstick carrots and garlic mashed potatoes in a crabmeat beurre blanc; “White Marble Farms” Pork Tenderloin - grilled tenderloin of pork with a three onion marmalade, seasonal vegetable and house made apple butter. Check it out at www.passiontherestaurant.com.

Carmen Gonzalez, formerly chef-proprietor of Carmen the Restaurant, is getting great reviews at her NYC restaurant, Lucy of Gramercy. John Mariani is still her number one fan (see http://www.johnmariani.com/archive/2007/071202/index.html). Here are some highlights from her menu: Farm Raised Striped Bass with Malanga Mash, Charred Tomato and Scotch Bonnet Sauce; Slow Braised Boneless Wagyu Beef Short Ribs with Funché and Island Mojito; and Huge Berkshire Pork Chop, Sweet Plantain, Farm Goat Cheese Piñon, Pork Demi. FYI, prices are no more than they were down here, which makes this a pretty sweet deal for Manhattan. www.lucyofgramercy.com.

Wanderlustful Klime Kovaceski, who has been cheffing in San Francisco and Las Vegas since leaving Miami Beach’s Crystal Café, is now at Café Dominique in Houma, Louisiana. The Southern American-Mediterranean fare comes up something like this: Louisiana White Shrimp Cakes, Maple Leaf Duck Two Ways and a Goat Cheese Cheesecake with Pomegranate Sorbet. Klime says he’ll stay a while, who knows, then possibly head back to Vegas. Hopefully he’ll still be there this July, when I head to New Orleans for Tales of the Cocktail. I, of course, intend to pay a call.

A is for Ariston

2008-02-05T11:47:00.001-05:00

B is for bigtime gossip. Currently testing on friends and family and about to open to the public, Ariston, run by the erstwhile owner of Bal Harbour's Elia, who some say doesn't have nearly the cash flow now as he did then, is taking up in North Beach where Ouzo left off before it relocated to the former Madibia spot in South Beach, for what I've heard is almost $30,000 per month in rent.

Yeah, I'm not sure I believe a word of it, either.

One for Free

2008-02-04T20:06:00.001-05:00

I've been in this business a long time, and I gotta tell you, squeezing a written recipe out of a chef is probably the toughest part of the job. Half the time they don't have 'em written down in anything resembling home-cook language, and if they do, they've usually forgotten something important, like the main ingredient.

But today I actually got an email with a recipe from Chef Robert at Maison Carlos in West Palm Beach without any prompting at all. It just appeared. And it reads pretty well. I only corrected one typo! It's for his tomato soup, which is one of his most popular dishes (and yes, I've eaten at this establishment, and it is very good). So I thought I'd share. But nota bene: I haven't tested it, so feel free to write in if you make it. Or send Chef Robert a word of thanks. It's not often you get something so ripe and red out of the blue.

RECIPE:

1 small onion, finely sliced
2 leeks, white only sliced and washed
2 tablespoons butter
5 lb fresh very red roma {plum} tomatoes
4 cups strong chicken stock
16 oz heavy cream

METHOD: In a large saucepan, melt the butter. Add the onion and leeks. Sweat the onion and leek until translucent {nice and soft but not brown}. Add the tomatoes. Let the tomatoes cook and release their liquid and acidity for at least 12 minutes, then add the stock. Let this boil and reduce for 45 minutes. Puree with a high speed blender and then strain through a chinoise. Add the cream {pre heated}. Season with kosher salt and white pepper & voila!

Cool Manchu

2008-02-03T17:36:00.001-05:00

My husband just called with the bad and good news. Yeung's Mandarin Garden is leaving 41rst Street on Miami Beach. I depend on that place for the only decent Chinese food in the area, and Jon brings it home to me when he's working at Mt. Sinai.

The good news? It's moving into the old Fu Manchu spot on 71rst Street. An historic site! And it's closer to me. I might even be able to get delivery other than from hubby.

There is a god, and she's Chinese.

Yeung's Mandarin Garden since 1982, coming soon to 325 71rst St., Miami Beach, 305-672-1144

The Chef As Phoenix

2008-01-31T21:34:00.000-05:00

Here's the thing about chefs: Even when they crash and burn, whether it's from a bad review or a failing business, they always rise again.

Take Jason McClain. His 81/2 eatery at the Clinton Hotel went under, what, about six? eight? months ago, yet he's back--simultaneously as a consultant for Andú Restaurant & Lounge, which opens under executive chef Nate Martin on Feb. 11 at 141 SW 7th street in Brickell, and as chef-owner of his own place, Jason’s at the Harrison, located at 411 Washington Avenue in the Harrison Hotel.

I admit a fondness for the 411 space; it's one of the first I ever reviewed (when it was called 411 back in 1992, and Sharon Goldman was chef) and later when it was Red Square under Robbin Haas and his crew. But I have a good feeling about this despite my sentimental bias, just from some of the menu descriptions: tamarind braised oxtail with pickled papaya and spiced yuca chips; Florida day boat grouper--which he gets in whole and fillets daily--pan-seared and served alongside sweet corn grits and sautéed wild mushrooms with truffle essence; and a spinach-and-feta-crusted free range chicken breast with Peruvian potato and sun-dried tomato jus.

My singular disappointment thus far: Apparently Jason's is only open for dinner, which means that his phenomenal hangover sandwich--a sure cure for what ails you every Sunday morning--is as yet unavailable. But I bet with a little pressure we can convince him to open for brunch.

Eat -- and Drink -- Big at Lunch

2008-01-30T17:55:00.000-05:00

I'm not sure quite how it's happened--turning 40? no longer reviewing weekly?--but I've turned into a lady who lunches. Or, more apty, for those who know me best, a chick who mostly drinks wine while daintily tasting small bites of her lunch. (Don't knock it -- it's a great way to keep your figure.) And I'm ready to share a couple of pretty sweet $20 deals.

The first, at the lovely River Oyster Bar in downtown next to Tobacco Road, is a 3-course prix fixe meal. There's 3 of everything (apps, mains and desserts) on the menu, and the options change weekly, so you're not stuck ordering the same thing day after day, should you want to be (or already are) a regular. And chef-owner David Bracha isn't skimping on the good stuff. The week I visited, he had Penn Cove oysters on the half shell as part of the bargain, and one of the "sweets" was Maytag blue cheese with a cinnamon crisp and fig jam. Good draught beers and a well-selected and reasonably priced wine list--one of Bracha's raison d'etre, left over from his Fishbone Grill days--barely up the $20 ante.

The second fab steal is at Azul, where lunch is busy but not overly crowded, and sun floods the dining room. Called the "bottomless pour," this one only happens on Fridays (unfortunately for me, but probably wise for them, as they would certainly lose money on me and my lush, er, lunch buddies). Here's the scoop: You order either the 3-course prix fixe (itself an awesome deal at $35) or an a la carte something-or-other--perhaps the long-legged fried Ipswich clams that Mainiac chef Clay Conley transforms into haute beauty, posing them on a runway of savory, creamed potato salad--and for an additional couple of ten spots, you have unlimited tastings of 4 wines. The wines change weekly and represent regionally, but to give you an idea of the quality that sommelier Cynthia Betancourt, you might have, say, Stubbs Chardonnay and Selby Pinot Noir as 2 of 'em.

Anyone wanna do lunch?

Pub Grub

2008-01-28T17:42:00.001-05:00

One thing I've always liked better about Broward than Miami (what? what did she say? preposterous!), or maybe several things: the pubs. Both Irish and British, they proliferate up there in a way that really does remind me of being abroad. Every one has its own identity--this one is known for its fish and chips, along with its Wednesday night trivia; that one for its Guiness stew and its live music; another for its draught selection and satellite-beamed soccer. Even when the food was just so-so, the atmosphere was always worth the miles on whatever leased vehicle I was running into the ground at the time.

In fact, I feel that pubs are so representative of easy-living Broward culture--the beachy communities that used to exist in and around Fort Lauderdale, and still do if you look hard enough--I chose to review a new one for my first-ever column for the launch of New Times Broward/Palm Beach back in 1997 (or so).

Stands to reason, then, that a Broward-based operation would see Miami as a ripe opportunity. Waxy O'Connor's, a mainstay on 17th Street Causeway for the past ten years, is set to open a location on Washington and 13th on South Beach just as soon as it gets its certificate of occupancy, says consulting chef Michael Jacobs, late of Grass (his contract there ended last November). The menu will initially be the same as the Lauderdale venue, where Jacobs consulted in 1999. So we're talking mainly pub grub at first. But later, he says, after a little trial-and-error, it'll branch out into lighter, SoBe-style foods.

The Irish invasion doesn't end there, either. Another Waxy's is planned for the Miami Riverside. Expect it in late summer/early fall, with more of a focus on seafood and steak.

Could mean, in part, that my driving days are coming to an end. Figures. I finally own a car and don't have to worry about penalties--except for the driving under the Guiness influence kind.

Pretzel Dog Alert

2008-01-26T11:32:00.000-05:00

Do you have problems picking what to eat on game day--the hot dog or the soft pretzel? Good news for the indecisive--Philly Pretzel Factory, about to open in the Keystone Plaza at 135th St. (305-944-3353) gives you the easy way out. They slather dogs with mustard, top 'em with cheese and roll them up with soft, Philly-style pretzel dough right in front of you and then bake to order. The best part? It's $2.50 per dog--or, if you prefer, $3.50 for a spicy pretzel sausage.

Another fab thing for pretzel fans: the party tray. These are regular salt and flavored twists (traditional bagel seasonings and seeds) grouped around sweet and savory dips including cheese and deli mustard. Forget NY or New England... I see the direction my Superbowl is going in--the City of Brotherly (pretzel) Love...

If You're Not at the 66th St. and Biscayne Blvd. Farmer's Market

2008-01-26T11:07:00.000-05:00

Here is just a taste of what you're missing. Thanks, Dewey, for the pix!

Kung Fu Who?

2008-01-23T11:58:00.000-05:00

The other night at Sushi Siam Bayshore, when friends ordered a JB roll, I had to explain to my daughter what it meant. "JB," I said, "basically stands for Jewish Bagel--it means there's salmon and cream cheese in the roll, like you'd find on a bagel. Only instead of lox, the salmon here is raw."

I've never been really comfortable with this designation, supposing as it does that preserved salmon is purely a Jewish invention (forgetting the Scandinavian gravlax) and that only Semites eat bagels with cream cheese and nova. I'm at least grateful that most places have the decency to initialize it. Still, I prefer the more pc "bagel roll"or its other name, "Philadelphia roll" (so-called for the name-brand cream cheese).

And there's really just no way I want to bless the version at Kung Fu Chu, the new Japanese/Chinese spot in the Catalina Hotel and Beach Club at 17th and Collins. Here, they're calling the mixture of crabstick, cream cheese and cucumber, wrapped in a sheet of bean curd and topped with salmon and salmon roe, the "Kung Fu Jew." Could be my sense of humor is missing on this one, but it's just not kosher--and espcially if the crabstick is in any way containing the real stuff.

Retrospective

2008-01-21T14:03:00.000-05:00

Miami New Times celebrated its 20th anniversary this past week, a milestone that as a longtime former employee I would have let go by unacknowledged despite the invite I received to the big bash—which, fyi, was open to the public for a fee. But current ed-in-chief Chuck Strouse’s “shuck-and-golly-aren’t-we-wacky” editorial, detailing some of the most telling mischief-making and muckraking from years past, kinda irritates. And that’s because, aside from the fact that Strouse only attributes writers and editors who are a) white and b) male in his piece, there’s absolutely NO mention of the award-winning coverage of the food scene that New Times has valiantly commented on from the birth of Norman Aken’s a Mano to the death of david bouley evolution.

So I’ll fill in the blanks, briefly: New Times was there when the Herald had a food section, and when it didn’t, and then when it did again. While Geoffrey Tomb and his peers consistently trashed New World Cuisine, then-managing editor Tom Finkel was nominated for a James Beard Award for a feature on wine list pricing policies; then-staff writer Robert Andrew Powell won a James Beard Award, as well as an Association of Food Journalists Award, for his piece on early-bird dining; and as erstwhile restaurant critic, I won top honors from the Green Eyeshade Awards, the Association of Food Journalists Awards and the Society of Professional Journalists Sunshine State Awards. In fact, of the “more than seventy first-place awards for editorial excellence” (per the MNT website), a good few were for food-based articles.

As for hoaxes and hijinks, I particularly appreciated penning an April Fools’ critique about a restaurant called “Tastes Like Chicken” that served outrageous eats such as stir-fried parrots’ beaks. It’s testament either to the inanity of our subtropical setting or the eagerness of our gullible media brethren that channel 7 news thought the restaurant was real (despite the made-up address and non-existent phone number) and wanted to feature it in a segment. Other fun stuff: When Todd Anthony drank innumerable shots of Cuban coffee down Calle Ocho with a medical resident in tow to monitor his blood pressure—a resident who is now, coincidentally, my husband’s partner in neurology practice. And when Greg Baker cooked up gumbo in his office, which smelled almost as good as the, er, incense he had burning.

Some not-so-magically delicious memories of my time (nearly 12 years) at New Times, where it was not so easy to work, include the editor who contributed to getting me fired from a day job (I was freelancing at the time) by having the receptionists page me if I wasn’t immediately available to answer important editorial questions such as “Does hot dog have a hyphen?”; being the first Miami New Times female editorial employee to ever give birth, and the subsequent 2-week maternity leave I then enjoyed; and the reviews I received from the corporate editors (make no mistake, New Times aka Village Voice, for all of its alterna-speak, is as structured as Burger King), who were of the opinion that my authorial voice was both too female and too Jewish--—reviews from which one of my former editors, Anne Tschida, largely deflected and protected me.

Regardless, I’m proud of what I accomplished at New Times under my hiring editor, Jim Mullin (who now owns the Biscayne Times, where I’m again working for him as a neighborhood columnist). I had the opportunities to be the first staff restaurant critic, and later on, to debut a food industry column (Dish, which retired with me when I left the paper in 2004) and gossip column (Side Dish, same deal). I’ll always be grateful that, then a green 24-year-old poet, I was virtually handed a career in what would turn out to be the very competitive world of food writing.

Good and bad, those were the days, from a slightly less white male, more Jewish female (and, to my mind, savory) perspective. And now, I'm happy to move on.

Always a Bridesmaid, But This Time Doesn't Suck

2008-01-20T13:13:00.000-05:00

When it comes to poetry book competitions--just about the only way to get published, it sometimes seems--I'm Katherine Heigl in a mountain of ugly dresses that are only good for Halloween costumes afterward.

Well, once again I'm standing next to the bride in the Women of Words Poetry Chapbook Competition. But this time my consolation prize is that little black dress that never goes out of style. As runner-up, my collection, Eve and After, has been offered publication by Southern Hum Press.

Unlike my first chapbook, Necessary Salt, this one has nothing to do with food or wine. Instead, these are all sonnets of a sort, with a good few drawn from travels in Mexico, Sweden and Greece. Others come from far more domestic adventures.

Which is, I guess, because in a literal sense I have been a bride after all.

The Spirit of Community Supported Agriculture

2008-01-19T12:42:00.000-05:00

It's nice to see it in action. And I don't mean just the regular coming and going of the 49 people who arrive at my home every Saturday to pick up their shares of fresh, organic farm produce.

Today the truck that delivers the boxes around 10:30 a.m. blew out two tires on its way. Margie, the farmer/organizer of this tremendous co-op, called to tell me what happened and asked if I could go down where the truck was and transfer the boxes to my car. But my Eos is a little small for that. Fortunately, another member of the CSA was standing nearby, and she immediately offered her husband's van to do the job.

Not even two hours later, her husband, Dan, his driver, Tony, and the van arrived at my house with all the veggies. At which point other members of the CSA pitched in to unload. Meanwhile, Dan turned around and went back south to a) make another delivery to Michael's Genuine Food & Drink and b) help Victor, the truck driver, who still hadn't gotten roadside assistance.

When we talk about Community Supported Agriculture, we never mention group efforts like this. But in the end, this is equally what it's all about.

DISS-appointments

2008-01-18T08:41:00.000-05:00

Some insight into the freelancer's life, and how it might affect the customer in the end:

A rather new, ritzy and very pricey restaurant on South Beach, which I'm covering for a national travel magazine, has refused to allow the photographer from the publication take pictures. The place is going to be featured in another, larger magazine around the same time my story would come out, they said, and they had given the first (read: more important) magazine exclusive rights.

Not only is this dumb, it's arrogant. The restaurant team knew I was writing about the venue at least a month ago. I had notified them via the public relations firm when I got the assignment. But they assumed that because the magazine I was working for was of less circulation, they wouldn't be sending a photographer. So they didn't bother to tell me this little detail.

Nor is this the first problem I had with the place. Though they hired PR to liaison with the media, they instituted a policy of "no media comps," which means freelance journalists have to pay for the meals they're going to write glowing reviews about (because nothing negative gets published in the national food-and-travel press). And I gotta tell ya, covering a fine-dining restaurant on South Beach out of your own pocket pretty much cuts your fee, which isn't big to begin with, right in half. Nonsensical stuff. It creates ill will on the part of the journalist (um, hello?) and basically ties the hands of the PR professional, too--though based on the photography situation, I suspect they loosen those ties if the journalist represents a magazine the team feels is worthy enough.

I had a small budget for this article, plus I had already submitted my choices to the editor. (That's right, I chose this restaurant to write about, among other new ones I could have given the free advertising to.) But I had already spent the budget on two places that hadn't hired PR, plus valets, tips and so forth. What to do, ethically speaking?

I took the high road, plumbed my piggy bank and kept it in the piece. But yesterday, when they refused to allow pictures, was a crossroads. Did I want to drop the restaurant altogether, the editor wanted to know? I could replace it with another restaurant, or I could keep it in without photos.

How many times do I have to be generous? Frankly, there isn't that much high ground at sea level. Damn, I just wanted to write about the place, not jump through freaking hoops like a trained poodle. And go broke in the process.

But far more importantly, if I--with all the best intentions, originally--get judged and dismissed this way, how do you think they treat the average diner?

True Clones

2008-01-15T22:39:00.000-05:00

The FDA has approved the meat and milk from cloned animals for human consumption. Frankly, I'm not shocked. My first thought, when Dolly the sheep was beamed into existence so many years ago, was not how she would fare, but how she would be AS fare. I knew it would only be a matter of time before we'd have prize bulls, steer and dairy cows being Xerox-ed for their superior traits.

Of course, it's not as simple as that. Cloning costs a bundle--$10,000-$20,000 per animal--so unless farmers become the new ambulance-chasers, we're not going to be seeing bacon from replicated pigs and genetically identical racks of lamb probably for generations.

Therefore, here's my reasoning now: Why waste the money on the swine and cloven hooved when we can go straight to the source? In other words, let's clone the chefs who can make anything taste good, whether it's a shoulder clod, skirt steak or prime rib. Imagine what the culinary world would be like with 10 Daniel Bouluds and 20 Thomas Kellers. Granted, there would be a few talented chef de cuisines out of work. But we'd be guaranteed an owner-cooked meal at every appellated eatery.

That'll wring a "Hello, Dolly!" out of us diners, don'tcha think?

What Resolution?

2008-01-14T09:18:00.000-05:00

So blogging became a bit of a challenge in the new year--Zoe broke her foot, I got a lingering stomach virus that attacked twice, then Remy got a different flu that is so contagious he and his best friend (and his best friend's mom) came down with it nearly simultaneously. After he slept on top of me throughout it all, I know I'm next. And yet, thru it all, I've managed to wine and dine. That's just the kind of trouper I am.

To date, the places I like the most include Michael's Kitchen in Sunny Isles. The vibe there is very playful--even my grump on crutches thought it was fun--and it's perfect for just about any member of the family from your inquisitive toddler to your hipster boomer. One caveat: Chef Michael Blum's choice of plates is eclectic--everything from movie reels to actual woks--and he tends to serve things like his plum-glazed cedar salmon or mojito-marinated rack of New Zealand lamb smoking and/or on fire (or with flaming 151 rum). Klutzes and phobics might want to keep back a bit from the table.

In other news, Brosia in the Design District has finally debuted, and the space is gorgeous. A mod interior will no doubt beckon once the warmer months hit, but for right now, the extensive patio is the spot to sit. There's a living room-like set-up in addition to tables, and everything's dominated by exterior wall murals and 100-yr-old live oaks (I'm guesstimating here, based on the size of my own trees that like to crash my cars during hurricanes). The food is contempo bistro--pomegranate-glazed duck leg over a cool lentil salad--the crowd artsy and so very voyeur-worthy, and the prices reasonable (!!!!!). One thing, though: If you're not looking carefully, it's very easy to blow by the place on NE 39th St. The lettering on the sign is really small.

Finally (for now), Kobe Club has some of the best decadence going on. The zillion strips of leather that hang from the ceiling look like a field of alien grass in reverse, and the temptation to pull on them will no doubt prove irresistible to some. Try to apply yourself to the American, Australian and Japanese Wagyu steaks instead. They are truly sumptuous, and the comparisons between are noteworthy, if you can afford the signature Samurai filet mignon flight that includes all 3, for instance. Personally, I can't, so I took advantage of the one and only time I'll likely ever be there and paired them with lobster bearnaise sauce and sake-white truffled creamed corn. My blood pressure will never be the same.

Then again, no doubt the next bout of flu will bring it plummeting down again.

When Haute Equals Haughty

2007-12-31T11:02:00.000-05:00

The success of the latest dining spot on South Beach, Maison d'Azur, has gone to its head. Last night--yes, a Sunday evening at 6:45--I actually had a hard time getting a table for my family despite the 3/4 empty restaurant.

"Do you have a reservation?" the host asked. "No," I said, figuring at such an early hour it wouldn't be necessary. (In fact it was so early for them that the outside host wasn't even at her stand yet, and I had to go inside to find someone to seat us.) "No?" he asked. "No," I said again. He beckoned to someone else, who came over. "They don't have a reservation," the first one said. "No?" to him. "No." "No?" to me. "No."

It was a farce. Then they both looked pointedly around the restaurant--still 3/4 empty--and back at me. Naturally I'm used to South Beach attitude and stood my ground. "We'd like to sit outside," I said. Then my daughter, who had broken a bone in her foot and was now in a cast and on crutches, limped inside. That sealed the deal. We were sent back outside to the patio, where we were finally given a table.

Why the faux reservation drama? Yes, I had kids with me, but they're not exactly young little monsters anymore. There were other, much smaller children already dining (and misbehaving) in the restaurant. We weren't underdressed, though an earlier, anonymous reviewer had stated she had dined in jeans and was treated with kid gloves. When we finally left at nearly 9, we were still the only party in the vicinity. So clearly they weren't overbooked.

Here's the deal: This place wants to be snotty. And I'm not making that up. While I was waiting for them to make up their minds whether to grant us the courtesy of dining at the establishment, I was privy to two details: A diner who had made a reservation and was being thoughtful enough to cancel (instead of just not show up) via a phone call was being charged for his trouble on his credit card; and Maison d'Azur's phone number, which we had been trying in vain to get from 411 so we could find the exact address, is unlisted--which makes it kinda hard to make a reservation, no? (For the record, you will get a number from Information, but this is a fax number, which is extremely maddening.) This is, the host told us, deliberate so that the restaurant maintains an air of exclusivity. In other words, so riffraff like us can't just walk in off the street. But once you're there, he'll give you his personal card so you have the direct line. And here I thought I left these New York-style antics behind when I moved away from the Northeast.

All this is for the privilege of dropping $373 on a meal where I had an appetizer and a side dish in lieu of a $40 entree; my fussy daughter had pasta with butter; we ordered the cheapest bottle of wine on the menu; and the table shared one dessert.

Yes, the food was wonderful, and the service, with the exception of the seating "policy," very thoughtful. But what an off-putting hassle just to lift a fork.

Baptism by Cribbage

2007-12-28T11:21:00.000-05:00

It's a little offbeat, I know, but Jon and I do it at every restaurant, upscale or pub-style, where we suspect we will be truly at home: We belly up to the bar or bar table and whip out the cribbage board and a deck of cards. Other customers stare, but by the way the bartender and waitstaff deal with us (no pun intended), we truly get a feel for a place. The cards give us a reason to stay for hours and order drinks and a meal slowly, without having to keep up a running conversation.

It's a very relaxing time. For me, anyway. I learned how to play cribbage in college as a freshman, where I used to have marathon sessions with a dorm mate in a smoke-filled room while we played Paul Simon's seminal Graceland over and over again. My friend taught me all her strategies, but being a natural card shark, I rapidly became the two-out-of-three winner. I immediately bequeathed Jon the game when I met him as a sophomore, and though we've played all over the world for the past 20 years, I still beat him the way I beat her--just because I have an instinct for cards. So my drinks and dinner always go down with a touch less indigestion as I cream him at cribbage. (Oh, he's gonna love this post.)

Of course, a couple of restaurants have turned out not to be suitable for long-term cribbage playing. But we've found that the bar tables at Magnum Lounge, before the piano gets really rollicking, are great for us; the clientele there is so eclectic that no one pays any attention to a couple of cribbage wackos. Schnitzel Haus, where there's a back patio as well as a bar, is ideal--once, a waitress taught me some new solitaire games that I really appreciated, given that I play hands in between cribbage when my doctor husband is on the phone with a patient (a frequent occurrence). Michael's Genuine Food & Drink can be quite crowded at the bar, yet we still find room to play with a miniature board, and the bartender never blinks. And on Thursday night we christened the bar at the new Two Chefs Too in North Miami, which is absolutely perfect--wide enough to lay out the cards and the board AND have a full-course meal at the same time, or just a cheese plate if you're not especially hungry (try the deep-fried Camembert with pine nut mustard on butter lettuce--it's sinful).

Naturally, now that I've posted this, I'm destined to lose the next round of cribbage, at whatever restaurant we decide to baptize next: possibly Upper Brickell's Andu Restaurant and Lounge, where 81/2's chef Jason McClain has reappeard, or China Grill Management's Kobe Club, opening in early January on Washington Ave. So, note to Jon, in cribbage-speak: Your go.

What's Open When

2007-12-19T16:31:00.000-05:00

It sure can get confusing. But here's the latest on our hot spots to be:

Domo Japones is open, but has been serving the limited list it had put together for Art Basel. A more complete menu launches tomorrow, however, for lunch and dinner. So far, I've found the veal cheek gyoza and the Berkshire pork belly ramen bowl to be best bets--savory dishes with that slight edge of difference we've been waiting for in our Japanese restaurants. If that doesn't turn you on, there's sushi, of course. And make sure to go just to look at the venue--it's a fab black-on-cream redo of the old Design District post office. The cut moldings alone will make you drool.

BOURBON Steak's opening to the public was officially delayed from Tuesday December 18 to Thursday December 20. I went for a friends-family-media dinner last night; by the time I left, I was carrying my stomach out in a sling. The food is rich and large, and meant to appeal to the rich and large. To wit: truffled French fries and a pair of foie gras "sliders," along with Kobe beef shabu shabu and an order of lobster tail in Thai curry sauce over a crepe, all washed down with a half-bottle of Riunart rose, was just the beginning. It's already clear that this will be THE very glam reservation to score this season, if you can afford it in both purse and waistband.

As for Brosia, it is now forecast to open the 26th. Ditto, I hear, for Kris Wessel's Red Light, which had a well-received preview during Art Basel. And Two Chefs Too has offically debuted in the old Mark's Place space.

BTW, Kobe Club from China Grill Management (located next door to China Grill on Washington Ave), the OTHER new go-to steak spot this season, will debut just after the new year. PR says friends-and-family will be making the staff cry--I mean, helping out by giving constructive criticism--during the holiday week.

Next installment: How many new restaurants can I try before taking the kids to NJ on the 24th? The race is on.

Earlier Every Year

2007-12-18T10:06:00.000-05:00

I smelled them when I was walking the dogs one night last week--the scent's always heavier in the evening--but convinced myself it must be my imagination. Wishful thinking, because then my allergies kicked in. I haven't stopped sneezing and wheezing for days now, even with a daily dose of Claritin D. So I took a look, and yup, the Haden and Carrie mango trees are in bloom. Unbelievable that it started in the middle of December, when "early" used to be January. Thanks, global warming. If these keeps up, one of these days I'm gonna have the fruit all year round. And I'll never breathe freely again.

New York, New York, A Helluva Translation

2007-12-14T12:14:00.000-05:00

At least, when it's done Dewey LoSasso's twisted way. This Tuesday night, at North One 10, Chef and wife Dale are offering their dining and entertainment interpretation of A Christmas in New York. Frankly, given the fact that Dewey's serving knishes in addition to allowing poet Howard Camner to be the emcee and myself to participate with my quartet, the Miami Shores Flute Ensemble, I'm detecting a little bit more Lower East Side than Miracle on 34th Street in the proceedings. But what the hay in the manger. No matter how you play it, it's still Christmas in the subtropics... and a great deal at that. Here's the invite:

Kick off the Holiday Season this year with an Enchanted Evening at North One 10!
On Tuesday December 18th, we will be hosting our "Christmas in New York" featuring performances by:

* The New World School of the Arts Barbershop Quartet * Poets; Shamele Jenkins, Carlos David, and C.A. Morrow * The Miami Shores Flute Ensemble* A special performance by our Pal, New Times "Poet of the Year," Howard Camner

MENU
Snow Ball Fights in Washington Square Park

Tarragon Pretzel topped with
Rock Shrimp, Mustard Sauce
Or
Noni's Potato Knish
Apple-Lemon Sauce, Crème Fraiche
Or
Cod Fritters, Garlic Aioli

Ice Skating at Rockefeller Center

Pulled Chicken Soup, Homemade Stars
Or
Field Greens
Dried Cranberries and Pine Nuts

Radio City Music Hall - Let's Watch the Rockettes!

Duck Cassoulet
Or
Flounder Meuniere
Creamy Polenta, Grapes
Or
Roasted Leg of Lamb
Roasted Bliss Potatoes, Minted Lamb Jus

Macy's 5th Avenue (The Xmas Windows)

Poached Pears and Port
Vanilla Ice Cream
Or
Eggnog Panna Cotta
Or
Chocolate Candy Cane Bread Pudding

The Evenings Entertainment will be hosted by
Howard Camner and accompanied by
Chef Dewey on guitar!!

$45.00 per person
Non Inclusive of Taxes and Gratuity
Reservations: 305-893-4211

New Sign Alert

2007-12-13T16:40:00.000-05:00

I've been wondering who would come in and take over the hulking behemoth that was Roadhouse Grill just north of 125th St. Guess it's going to be a rib joint--Barbecue Beach, or something similar--according to the temp signage that I just barely viewed from Biscayne Blvd. as I whizzed by on my way home from my workout. Carbs and fats be damned, I am so not arguing. Barbecue's a gap that's long needed filling around this section of town. When it'll be filled, however, is anybody's guess.

It Never Fails

2007-12-12T22:06:00.000-05:00

When one appliance is fixed, another breaks. My kitchen sink works, so my dishwasher doesn't. Someone out there--the same someone who punished me on Thanksgiving Day by having my kitchen faucet spring a major leak--now wants me to handwash dishes. Well, it ain't gonna happen. That's what paper and plastic are for.

In fact, I now plan on setting the tables for all my upscale celebrations this way, whether they're for holidays or not. Thanks to Divine Disposables, I can be stylish and trash-minded at the same time--a dream come true for a Jersey girl, let me tell you. Founder Janyce Granoff, with husband Robert, has forged a line of high-quality products, from plates and glasses to nut cups and butter dishes (yes, nut cups), that can all be tossed after the event. They're so trendy and pretty, not to mention themed (such as “Fairy Rose” or “Chiaroscuro”), as to be suitable for weddings.

I kid you not. Granoff's even written a book entitled Wedding Place Settings With Divine Disposables, which acts as a guide with ideas and direction for creating one's own spectacular wedding reception. “My job is to assuage anxiety about using disposables for wedding receptions and other celebrations,” says Janyce. “I have personally spoken to thousands of customers in this target market, and have learned what caterers and brides want and need. I know their fears, financial limitations, and peculiarities of culture or venue. I am in tune with their concerns, solutions and the products they need to make their dreams come true.”

Check it out at www.divinedisposables.com or call 305.443.0112. With kits available for up to 70 people and prices ranging from $2 per place setting to $14 per place setting, this Miami-based business will change your mind about just what, and how much, it takes to put on an extravagant affair.

Although already I can just hear my mother saying, "Poor Zoe. She never really had a chance at a normal bat-mitzvah, did she."

Every Writer's Dream

2007-12-11T13:17:00.001-05:00

is the book that writes itself... apparently I wrote this one, not that I remember it. But as the Internet says I did, it must be true; heck, I even have an ISBN number. I can't wait to see what I have to say!

Fechar descrição de Around Europe - Logos
Título: Around Europe - Logos
Autor: Karetnick, Jen
ISBN: 067900727X
Marca: Fodor´s

Wonder if I'll get royalties??

La Bodeguita del Medio Meets Louis XIII

2007-12-10T11:27:00.000-05:00

The new La Bodeguita del Medio on Coral Way, a sister location of the famed Havana eatery in Cuba, has a lot of nifty design elements, courtesy of Dionne Mahe-Setien--a "Batista" police car parked at the entrance, embellished dominos tables outside, an elevator that changes colors as you take it up to the second floor, and 6 faux palm trees about 25 feet high that, like the lift, are also equipped with LED lights.

But my favorite part is the Louis XIII room. This VIP section is dedicated to the pricey and supremely smooth Remy Martin Champagne Cognac, and several bottles are reverentially featured, with candles surrounding them, ready to be lit in ceremonial fashion during tastings. Most impressively, a Black Pearl Limited Edition Bottle is under glass in one corner. Custom-designed in the familiar shape, but with the Baccarat crystal infused with glimmering metals and adorned with platinum fleur-de-lis, 786 of these decanters (the limit that comes from one tiercon, or barrel, of Cognac) were filled with a blend of more than 1,200 eaux-de-vie (lots of the spirit) ranging from 40 to more than 100 years old.

Purchase was by invitation only, and each bottle initially went for $8,000; the entire Black Pearl catalog, which went on sale March 1, sold out in 2 months. (By comparison, regular Louis XIIIs go for $1,200-1,500.) But that was just the initial asking price. Bottles have since then been traded, and Wikipedia reports that "Although the recommended price was of 7,000€ per bottle, the most expensive decanters were found in Tokyo at 62,000€... Some billionaires and Presidents got or just tasted it: Mr. Potanin, from Russia; Prince Albert of Monaco; Cheikh Al Amudi; Stipe Mesic, etc."

Although it's impossible to estimate how many Black Pearl bottles are left unconsumed and intact, La Bodeguita manager Brian thought there might be as little as ten, and that the restaurant has one of them. Screw the fake palms and 25-foot ceilings. You won't taste it, but if you can manage it, the Black Pearl is what's really worth seeing. And then you can console yourself (for being neither billionare nor President) with one of the restaurant's signature mojitos. There's 25 on the list; I recommend the tamarind.

Bringing on Brosia

2007-12-06T13:26:00.000-05:00

There's something to be said for not jumping to conclusions. When I couldn't reach the soon-to-open Design District restaurant Brosia ("a mosaic of Mediterranean cuisine"), which had gotten some advance buzz this summer, the lazy way--via the web site, which AOL kept telling me was non-existent, had moved or I was spelling incorrectly--I got worried. Had the restaurant had gone under before it had actually opened? This being Miami, that's not unheard of.

But as I couldn't write about it in advance for any of my magazines without knowing for sure, I researched my suspicions. Glad I did. Not only is the venue alive and well, it actually has a soft debut this weekend with an Art Basel menu, after which it will shut down and re-open with its full list next weekend.

So get your chops on. If you believe in the power of language as well as image, Chef Arthur Artiles is putting triple the amount of "Art" into his Art Basel menu. We should all be there to appreciate it.

As for the disappearing web site, here's the deal: There's a glitch. You can't access it if you use AOL 9.0. I don't know why; these things mystify me, which is why I'm a writer, not a techie. When it finally hit me that it might be a computer programming error, I tried from Internet Explorer. And what do you know, the site's pretty darn nice. Check it out for yourself if you have, say, Yahoo.

www.brosiamiami.com

Up, Up--and Not Away

2007-12-05T09:47:00.000-05:00

Coinciding with Art Basel, the Krug Balloon is in town on its maiden voyage. Metaphorically representing the luxe Champagne house's Krug Grande Cuvée, this all-white hot air beauty, with the basket perimeter made of leather that's usually reserved for $5,000 handbags and passenger compartments outfitted with three-tier lunch canteens, silver cutlery and Krug flutes (for your Slow Food-inspired lunch designed by chef Marc Bretillot), lifted off from Paris in October. It will visit the States, Japan and Hong Kong before returning to Europe in summer 2008. And lucky me, I was invited to go on the launch this morning at 6 a.m.

Only it didn't happen. A phone call at 5:30 a.m. informed me that the winds were too high for flying. So instead of drinking vintage Krug while peering down at a relatively still-sane Miami, before Art Basel madness sets in later today, I fed the cats and went back to bed for an hour before I had to get up again and take the kids to school. Oh, the mundanity! (Is that a word?) But I look as it this way: At least I didn't land in Oz.

Third Time Is the...

2007-12-04T12:24:00.000-05:00

charming Michael's Kitchen, which opened this past Saturday in the Newport Beachside Hotel & Resort in Sunny Isles. This is indeed chef Michael Blum's third location--not counting the mostly home-meal replacement service counter he launched his career with in South Broward--and he seems to get better and more creative with each successive place. Thus the internationally inspired goodies on this menu include such temptations as the corned beef "Reuben" spring roll; black truffle oil lobster mac & cheese with a fusion of mascarpone, smoked gouda and parmesan penne; slow-roasted short rib tacos served with roasted corn, peppers, fresh tomatoes, nacho cheese and sour cream-cilantro slaw; and the painted Peking crispy half duck, served in a white soy reduction with chilled sticky sake rice and vegetable salad.

Sunny Isles, and well-named at that--this culinary future is so bright, I gotta wear, well, designer high-performance self-tinting spectacles.

There's Something about My Kitchen

2007-12-03T13:25:00.000-05:00

You see, it's always broken. In addition to the constant battle with the refrigerators and the perpetually busted Bosch oven, now I have no kitchen sink. The faucet sprouted a leak on Thanksgiving--yes, the day itself, convenient as that is--and the part has taken this long to come in. I constantly feel like I'm living in an apartment with a hot plate and mini-fridge, making do.

Meanwhile, I had to cook for two parties I was attending this weekend, including an annual block party where there were sparse appetizers and side dishes last year, I was told. But rinsing sandy organic greens for a salad in a bathroom sink didn't sound appealing, so I pulled out the Big Chef appetizers that I'd been sent a couple of weeks ago to sample.

Big Chef is a catering company that's basically an "online store for home parties: shoppers have a choice of 6 pre-selected party packages or the ability to 'pick and choose' from 40 delectable items for their event." The items range from spring rolls to empanadas--12 different kinds, including exotic flavors such as hearts of palm or alligator--to pastry-wrapped delicacies such as lobster Wellington.

Depending on how much you buy, delivery might be free, but that's not really the important part. What is: These hors d'oeuvres arrive within 48 hours at your door, ready to heat and serve--mine came out beautifully from the toaster oven, the only reliable object in my entire dorm room, er, kitchen. You can also order fresh canapes. It's less stressful than going to Costco. (During the busy season, it's best to give them a few days notice, however.)

Trust me, the quality is terrific--the feta cheese and sundried tomato phyllo dough pastries went much faster than any other dish at the block party. And I bet my neighbors have working sinks AND real ovens.

www.bigchefonline.com
Order by phone call bigchefonline.com at 1.954.965.2480
Fax your order 1.954.965.7860
E-mail: order@bigchefonline.com

Sex and...

2007-12-01T19:55:00.000-05:00

What else is there? Oh yeah, there's Champagne, and if you're female, there's shopping. Thus the launch of Sex &..., a private club-meets-boutique that opened Friday nite. Located at 743 Washington Ave, this multi-venue boudoir is so exclusive you need to pay membership fees and have your fingerprint memorized by the techno-gadget to enter. In return, you get access to ultra-luxe styles, designers and brands of lingerie, shoes, fashion, art, fragrances, jewelry, accessories and even pet couture not available to US femmes of lesser ilk.

Frankly, I'm most interested in the mirrored Champagne room, along with the tea-and-pastry section. Oh, ok, I like shoes, too. But remember, the best thing to do with pumps is drink the bubbly out of 'em. And by the way, of the annual membership fee? 99% will be donated to various women’s charities. So it's snobby, yeah. But not completely heartless.

Passport Workout

2007-11-29T09:01:00.001-05:00

I've been busy traveling; I guess that's obvious. But to the dismay of my children, I can say honestly that my passport, which has been getting a little frayed around the edges lately, is going to stay within reach.

That's because I'm planning to take it over the the Miami-Dade County border. Specifically, I'm heading down to Key West to visit Norman Van Aken's self-described "hyphenated" restaurant Tavern N Town in the Beachside Resort & Conference Center. Tavern's already serving as of late October, offering a ton of Norman-esque New World-isms in a casual atmosphere, along with everything else you might possibly want (including pizzas from the wood-burning oven and sushi from collaborating chef Sato Honda).

Town, which is the more formal dining room, draws the big curtain December 15. Norman himself is quite excited about being back in his beloved Keys. I did a taping of "After Hours with Daniel" at Ortanique with him, and he and wife Janet both told me that they are really optimistic about their future. It was good to see.

What's that? You can't conceive of heading down there just as tourist season starts to really hit, and the prices go up, and the crowds throng, and the cruise ships congregate? And, maybe, because Van Aken didn't leave Miami with words of grace, blaming the city for becoming a fast-food nation that coldn't support his venue?

Forget it. All I can say is, this is about FOOD. If you miss the culinary excitement that Norman's brought to town 12 years ago when it launched in the Gables--I have to admit, I still have my invitation to the grand opening--book yourself a room and head down. Consider it an early holiday present to yourself. You know you deserve it.

Conched Out

2007-11-25T12:53:00.000-05:00

I'm feeling a bit guilty about not blogging for a while. Ok, I'm lying. That's not why. I'm feeling guilty because I am having TOO MUCH FUN down here in the Turks and Caicos judging the conch festival.

What a gig! They've put me up in The Regent Palms, where I am in a suite that is bigger than the entire first floor of my house. The only disappointment is that it didn't come with a houseboy, lol.

My only duty, which was yesterday, was to sample every conch dish entered into the festival. Rough stuff. There was the requisite conch salad, conch chowder and conch fritters. But there was also conch wontons (one of the overall winners, from Aqua restaurant), conch tempura, conch spring rolls, conch risotto with roasted corn and porcini mushrooms from a brand new place called Bare Naked Conch--great name, no?--conch steamed in coconut milk, brown stew conch...

Yes, I'm sort of craving a steak right now (beef, not conch), but I suspect there's more conch in my future. Besides, you know what they say about that stuff. And if you don't, feel free to read my article "Conch Strength" at http://www.jenkaretnick.com/articles/conch_strength.html. That and a little bush rum and I won't need to bring Jon home any souvenirs but me.

Drink with Your Fingers

2007-11-20T10:23:00.000-05:00

How cool is this? In Worcester, 80 miles from Cape Town, South Africa, they've made the first Braille wine bottle in the world. Although there have been Braille labels in the past, this is the only one where the Braille is actually engraved in the glass.

It's a classic claret-shaped bottle, in both red and white versions, and is available for use for all certified wines in the area.

What does the Braille say? "100% Worcester, South Africa." Not exactly enlightening, unless you know that Worcester is in the heart of the largest wine-producing region in the country, located on Route 62, the world's longest wine trail, and is also the center for the hearing- and sight-impaired in South Africa, with world-renown schools and institutes providing life skills training and crucial support systems.

Talk about combining your resources.

Shameless Plug -- But Hey, It's Poetry

2007-11-19T22:11:00.000-05:00

Check this out --- 2 new poems of mine now in Alimentum Journal, a cool food-lit mag:

http://www.alimentumjournal.com/alimentumonline.html

Speaking of poetry, I also just found out that one of my unpublished collections, Tales from Mango House, was a finalist in a recent competition for Spire Press. At the same time, I was informed that it was NOT the winner.

See, usually you're notified of finalist status before the "dang, you lose," notification arrives in your SASE. For instance, my other unpublished chapbook, Eve and After, is a finalist in a women's voices comp for Southern Hum press. Yeah, they notified me before the big announcement, which should be in December sometime.

'Course, I probably just jinxed myself. Sigh. Always a bridesmaid. (Except for that once, when I actually got married.) And unlike the Olympics, in the highly competitive and largely unread world of poetry, you generally don't get medals--or published--for coming in second.

On My Plate

2007-11-19T14:10:00.000-05:00

I think I am suffering from alimentary exhaustion. And season hasn't even really started--though we can expect a big bang once the turkey's digested. Or could be I'm pre-anticipating the tryptophan. But most likely I just need to up my thyroid meds.

See, it's really not like me: When I contemplate the sheer number of eateries I'm going to be sampling soon--among them, the highly anticipated Brosia in the Design District; Two Chefs Too, which chef-owner Jan Jorgensen has told me will be ready around Thanksgiving, especially for catered parties; Red Light, the Kris Wessel place, which finally has banquettes and light fixtures, at least what I can see from the road--well, it has me arranging nap time along with reservations and babysitters.

Then there's the Asian invasion also coming our way--Domo Japones in the Design District; Tao, Philippe and Mr. Chow on South Beach; Mint Leaf (Indian from London--there is a god!) in the Gables; and the about-to-launch Indian on Biscayne just before downtown (is it Bengal? Bombay? Mumbai?) across from The Daily. My lust for noodles and curries and such is no secret, but these days I feel my Hashimoto's sluggishness is becoming equally notorious.

The question is, can my palate spark my metabolism? Or will I have to take a higher dose of Synthroid? It'd be nice if the former were a possibility, but [insert jaw-cracking yawn]...

God of Choice

2007-11-13T22:23:00.000-05:00

Everybody seems to think you have to pray to a god of some kind; naturally, I've chosen Bacchus. Thus I can't resist a restaurant anywhere in the world named for my deity of conscious design. Bacchus in St. Croix did not disappoint (http://www.restaurantbacchus.com/).

For starters, there's a knowledgable and super-friendly staff here, most of whom work only because they need to support their dining habits. That's because of mad food like the homemade ravioli stuffed with duck confit in a brown butter-sage sauce (perfect for dipping the 10-year starter sourdough bread into), followed by the duck breast sauced with a Cruzan Navy Blackstrap rum gastrique. Man, this was good stuff. I ate much more than I intended.

And drank. The first course, we washed down with a Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc under screwcap--fresh and delicious. The latter, we rinsed with a 2003 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon. Special note about this etched bottle--it was produced in 2006 for the 50th anniversary of Caneel Bay, a ritzy resort over on neighboring St. John. Bacchus wound up with the wonderful leftovers, and we scored the last bottle of that batch.

The only thing that could go wrong now is if it shatters in my luggage.

Waiting to Chow

2007-11-10T16:35:00.000-05:00

Yes, TMZ.com reported in a posting about Mr. Chow this morning that there is a location in Miami. And yes, Yelp.com, all the way back in March, had already given the place 5 stars, because even though the “review” acknowledges that Mr. Chow was not anticipated to become part of the South Beach dining world this year, “from his track record Mr. Chow South Beach is sure to be one of the hottest restaurants in South Beach.”

But no, we do not have a Mr. Chow outpost yet. So don’t go making any reservations.

This is what the official Mr. Chow website says: "Scheduled to open at W Hotel on Collins Avenue, South Beach, in 2008.” We know what that means. Heh. Sort of reminds me of when the New York Times wrote about how hot the pool scene was at the Shore Club—before the resort was even booking guests.

To clear up any confusion, we do have a Mr. Chu’s. And it is, indeed, open.

Bouley Debate

2007-11-10T12:44:00.001-05:00

And I hope it's a good, long-running one: Commenters disagree. My source is an extremely reliable one. We'll wait and see; after all, a new buyer could come in; minds can change; the rift between celeb chef and current proprietor could heal. And yes, Castro is, apparently, still alive.

For the record, I'd be happy if the venue stayed as is. It's better for Miami's rep, which suffers enough, and I've enjoyed my meals at Evolution, the last of which was during a beaujolais vertical tasting just a couple of weeks ago. The lamb was far better than some of the cooked wine.

But this is the same place we waited three years to open, remember? And it's not even a year old. So the PR party line isn't really worth much here. Decor, menu and staffing "in transition?" Furniture being "rearranged" for an art show that's several weeks away?

Please.

Bye Bye Bouley

2007-11-09T08:50:00.000-05:00

So much for Evolution. David Bouley's venue in the Ritz-Carlton South Beach, I'm told, has gone extinct. Reasons why? The usual Darwinian ones--a species that couldn't adjust to the environment. Specifically, that means a no-show marquee chef who still liked to collect his appearance fees and Miamians who weren't fooled by his lack of effort. Apparently, the owner wasn't too pleased with his high expenses and lack of incoming, well, income, and has had a sale in the works for the past few months. But the buyer pulled out, so there you have it: Evolution has devolved.

New Game Plan

2007-11-06T11:01:00.000-05:00

Ever get frustrated by a waiter not taking your order in a timely fashion? Lollygagging between courses? Removing your plate before you were actually finished? I've got a new method for getting those behaviors to stop: Drop trou and pee.

Sounds crude, I know. But I learned it from my dachshund, S'more, who's been having an awful lot of accidents lately. Today I took her to the vet, thinking she has a urinary tract infection. Nope. What she has is hunger and frustration, kind of like Miami diners. See, two weeks ago I put her on a diet by feeding her less and restricting her access to the cats' bowls. Basically, I stopped serving her the way she wants to be served. So she's been pissing on the floor five or six times a day.

As you can imagine, this passive-aggressive action has been only somewhat effective, because it's taken me a couple of weeks to figure out why she's mad. Does that mean I'm going to take her off the diet? Not exactly. The chubby beast hasn't lost an ounce. But what I will do is get her some doggy Jenny Craig. S'more Dachshund deserves to diet at least as gracefully as, say, Kirstie Alley.

Speaking of aninals and animal behavior, the first annual Palm Beach Food & Wine Festival, which takes place this Wednesday night at 150 WORTH, will benefit The Peggy Adams Animal Rescue League, Humane Society of the Palm Beaches. Guests will be able to taste specialty foods from the participating restaurants and wine vendors for a $25 donation each. Buy tickets by calling 561-366-1226 or logging on to http://www.shaminabaspr.com/ or calling Peggy Adams Animal Rescue at 561-686-3663. After 12 pm Wednesday tickets can only be purchased at the door for $35.00. See "Goings On" section for more info.

Scrap Heap

2007-11-05T22:10:00.000-05:00

Say good-bye to the Crap Bar. I mean, the Scrap Bar. The For Lease sign is up, the website is down, and the place is goners. Not sure this is alluva bad thing. I always liked the IDEA of the place. I love dark smoky joints, whether they're serving cigarettes or brisket. This one happened to be in the business of both. I just would feel ill after ingesting anything from there. Booze, beef, didn't matter.

So now there's pretty much no bbq within reach of us at all, unless you count the Dairy Queen Brazier, haha. Plenty of crap bars, though, like the Uke. Well, there's always that one consolation.

Miami Book Fair International

2007-11-02T12:38:00.001-04:00

(1) The Author: Govind Armstrong with Ann Wycoff and Alison Claire Steingold; Photographs by Lisa Romerein

The Book: Small Bites, Big Nights: Seductive Little Plates for Intimate Occasions and Lavish Parties

The Preview Review: Sure, he's one of us now. But cachet on the Miami (and LA) fine dining scene doesn't necessarily translate into international cookbook credit. Fortunately, Govind's work at Table 8 is both reflected and enhanced by this user-friendly tome, which includes just as much direction for prep work (blanching a tomato, toasting pine nuts) as there is for technique and presentation. Every recipe has a level of difficulty, from easy to challenging, so you know what you're getting into at the outset, and there's an abundance of creativity with a minimum of hard-to-find ingredients (the exception being items such as chicken oysters).

Drawbacks? Well, I find the design irritating. Lots of graphlike, geometric lines separating page elements distract the non-architectural, non-engineering eye. And inverted items-to-amounts needed are confusing to the home cook who is not used to reading a recipe like a sous chef.

Finally, some might quibble about the punny overuse of the 8 symbol that figures in the chapter heads such as "from grill to pl8," "s8: sexy savories" and "l8 night: lounge foods," as well as the tips that appear throughout the book--they're called "educ8." If you weren't familiar with Armstrong's Table 8 restaurants, didn't bother to read the intro (because really, who does?) and just picked up the book because of its title, you'd be well and truly lost.

If that's the case, I recommend turning to page 108, where you'll find the recipe for Sex on South Beach, the drink that's been known to cure all such complaints.

(2) The Author: Padma Lakshi; Photographs by Ditte Isager

The Book: Tangy Tart Hot & Sweet: A World of Recipes for Every Day

The Preview Review: The danger with this book title is that sooner or later, someone is bound to tell you that it applies to Lakshmi herself. Allow me to be the thousandth person to tell you that while it could probably well describe this “Top Chef” host, ex-wife of Salman Rushdie, Indian-born model/actress and cookbook author (and the rest of us), it also adequately covers the global content of the book. As much as it is a collection of recipes and remembrances of her heritage and childhood, the dishes also stem from her travels around the world and her general experiences in life. So while you get instructions for “Green Mango Curry” and a story about “Jhoti, the Peanut Man,” you also receive directions for “Mexican Macaroni and Cheese” and an essay “In Praise of Bacon.”

The fact that Lakshmi lives in celebrity society also means that you’ll often find her introductions and headers peppered with words like “photo shoot” and “fashionista friends” and “recently, in Hawaii, while filming…” I get the feeling her editors tried very hard to keep this toned down, so at times you actually see the reverse problem—some really boring, repetitive intros that begin “I love hot corn bread…” followed by “I love cauliflower…” So while her teachings aren’t entirely too precious, they’re also not as insightful as she wants them to be.

Do you care? You know you only went to stare at her in the flesh.

(3) The Author: David Kamp

The Book: The United States of Arugula: How We Became a Gourmet Nation

The Preview Review: “It is a great time to be an eater… food is one area of American life where things just continue to improve,” Kamp writes in The United States of Arugula. If we’re cooking at home, we have a greater breadth and higher quality of ingredients available to us. If we’re dining out, we have more options open to us, and a greater likelihood than ever that we’ll get a good meal, no matter hat the price point.”

Agree? Disagree? Probably depends on where you live (i.e. New York versus Miami, some will undoubtedly bring up). Nevertheless, hear Kamp’s reasons why America is in the midst of a savory food revolution. His arguments are sound and his research impeccable. The style of his writing for most of the book remains unrelentlessly journalistic—you have to plump the preface and closing for some clever personal observations—so if you’re looking for memoir, this is not it. You will, however, glean some great details about the lives of a lot of all-American foodies, from the first-ever celebrity chefs to groundbreaking critics.

(4) The Author: Sandor Ellix Katz

The Book: The Revolution Will Not Be Microwaved: Inside America's Underground Food Movements

The Preview Review: Ok, so you’re sick of hearing about it already. But just in case you’ve had your head stuck in a rapidly melting glacier: Now is the time to go green. Save the family farm; recycle; eat locally and seasonally; raise humane meat; and yes, legalize marijuana. Katz not only offers substantiated reasons why, backed up by documented studies, he also give us recipes for his more interesting theories: “Massaged Kale;” “Bone Broth;” and “Herbal Elixir Mead,” an aromatic alternative to wine and beer.

I probably do a disservice to Katz by adding the note about marijuana, because this book is filled with profoundly good research and personal observation, and is written in a non-clinical, persuasive tone. Yet for the eye-rollers out there, statements like “I love to eat weeds. I am a weed forager… Often I talk to the chickweed as I harvest” could produce some serious orbitals. So for the skeptics, I also offer this nugget: There’s a lovely little recipe here for extracting oil or butter from cannabis. Here’s hoping Katz brought samples.

Amoretto

2007-11-02T12:37:00.000-04:00

The Place: Amoretto Ristorante, in the old Biscayne Merchants spot.

738 NE 125th St., North Miami, 305.892.4415.

The Atmosphere: You'd never recognize it as the former BWM. Bright and cheery, with light woods, a new floor and furniture and a bar built along the western side. The South American/Italian ethnicities of the staff can make for some misunderstandings if you don't speak the languages but there's plenty of familial-style warmth. I took the hubby and kids and and saw lots of other families enjoying a meal, and nobody without kids seemed to be disturbed by it either.

The Meal: Simply great pastas. The gnocchi in pink sauce went down the hatch of the pickiest family member, and my fettuccine with cherry tomatoes and scampi boasted three excellent specimens of enormous fresh lobsterettes (had to sacrifice most to my son, who loves shellfish). In the meat department, a skirt steak was cooked perfectly medium rare as requested, with juices running freely into the superb mashed potatoes and grilled asparagus.

To start, opt for fried calamari with zucchini over the crab cake salad; the cakes tasted more like reconstituted codfish than crab. For dessert, a ricotta-rich cheesecake is hard to argue with. Not a great wine list for great prices, though. Pretty high, in fact, for mediocre wines--the lowest is $36 or so for a Veramonte. I suggest calling ahead and asking about corkage.

The Bottom Line: Going back? Yup, with or without kids, but definitely with my own wine should they allow.

News and Such

2007-11-02T12:13:00.000-04:00

*For those wondering where he went after his eponymous eatery closed down in the Gables, Jeffrey Brana's cooking at The Raleigh Hotel these days, and I'm told his menu's set to debut in a week or two. Here's hoping it's more of the superior locavore same that he exhibited at Restaurant Brana, which had an all-too-brief run, and Norman's, where he was exec chef for, what, a decade or so. Could it be he'll even bring some gastronomic glamour back to the Raleigh, which it's lacked since the Kerry Simon/Blue Star days? Hmm--perhaps if he grows his hair out.

*In late November/early December, Texas de Brazil takes over where o-R-o left off at the Miami Beach Marina. The Brazilian churrascaria will boast 30,000 square feet and 750 seats. That's so you can expand comfortably while indulging in the 100-item salad bar, with lobster bisque, made-to-order sushi, marinated vegetables, fresh greens, aged cheeses, freshly made in-house salad dressings, and hot and cold specialty items, all of which precede the parade of prime cuts of filet mignon, parmesan pork loin, chicken breast wrapped in bacon, hearty flank cut, roasted leg of lamb, seared top sirloin, Brazilian sausage, and the house specialty picanha, which of course are accompanied by traditional popular Brazilian side dishes including warm cheese rolls, garlic mashed potatoes, and perfectly fried sweet bananas. I feel slightly ill just copying all that from the press release.

*Amoretto, an Argentine-Italian bistro, has opened in the former Biscayne Wine Merchants spot. The redone restaurant features outdoor seating area, a wine cellar, cigar humidor, signature bar and a 50” plasma TV "equipped for corporate presentations." Phew. Wouldn't want to be caught without that! Actually, the place is quite family-friendly and the fare is tasty, courtesy of Argentine-born owner Esteban Tettamanti and executive chef Marcello Florio, who has also served as executive chef at New York’s famed Harry Cipriani. See "Been There; Going Back?" for more info.

Killer Combo: Kaftans, Samosas and Complimentary Punch

2007-10-31T08:52:00.000-04:00

My husband tells me I have the thought processes, and mostly accompanying actions, of a guy. For sure I have the appetite, or at least the (ahem) lust for life, of a typical XY--or whatever generalizations apply to XYs rather than XXs. But I have to admit, I've got the figure and the shopping habits of a chick thru and thru. That's why this soiree sounds like it was planned with me in mind. Here's hoping that the punch has some, ah, punch to it, if you know what I mean...

Press release:
Diwali is the Indian New Year, also known as the festival of lights. It is a time to rejoice and a time for exchanging gifts; most of all it is a time to put on new things. Keeping in spirit, the newly opened contemporary Indian restaurant, Ishq, will host a shopping party featuring garments by Indo-Chic on Tuesday, November 6 from 12-3 pm, with Complimentary Fruit Punch and Hors D’oeuvres. Indo-Chic plays on the emerging trends of ethnic influence in today’s fashion world. The line offers an authentic selection of kaftans and tunics, beautifully hand- embroidered beaded-skirts and unique jewelry. Ishq is a contemporary Indian restaurant that offers guests a gourmet journey through India’s culinary history and culture. The restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner from 7:30 a.m. to 1 a.m. A full-service bar and daily happy hour is offered from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. 530 Ocean Dr., Miami Beach, 305.532.4747.

The Omens

2007-10-30T08:40:00.000-04:00

It strikes me I've been a little cavalier about what I called "the omens" in the last blog post: the dead animals leading to the crashed hard drive, which appears unrecoverable at this point.

(Before you start yelling at me about backing up, pls. note that I did save very large docs such as books and stuff to my laptop, but the logistics of my failing computer required me to email them to myself--there was no other way to do it. Emailing every single piece of research and article/poem-in-progress would have taken hours every day and frankly, some if not most will be better for having been eventually been rewritten.)

This post is not about the craft of writing, however, but the about the fact that in the previous one, I chastised the turkey vultures for not showing up when I needed them to eat the decaying possom. These big black birds regularly migrate to South Florida every October to winter over, then leave again in the spring when it gets too hot. Well, did I say I wanted vultures? Because they're here now. In fact, they are ALL OVER MY HOUSE--but on no one else's on the entire block or, as I drove the kids to school, on anyone else's house that I could see!

Roosted on my roof, on the limbs of the live oaks, on the highest points of the fence--they are EVERYWHERE. I've only seen this happen once before, when the kids were about 4 and 2. We had walked outside to go to preschool and Remy said, "Look, Mommy, birdies." And there were hundreds of vultures, taking a rest during their annual migration. I was so freaked out I canceled my plans to fly to NY that day for a bachelorette party, even though it was for my oldest friend in the world. She had lost her brother in 9/11; if anyone understands superstition, she does.

Today there aren't quite as many, maybe about 75 in total. But enough to be remarkable and, coupled with the other warnings about which I have been glib, they seem to be an extra little nudge to pay attention. I wonder if this has anything to do with TS Noel, forecast to become a hurricane as it passes by Miami on Halloween tomorrow. Right now we might get some gusty conditions, a few spotty storms, but the storm itself should stay to our right, the meteorologists say. But we all know how correct they frequently are.

So I'm getting prepared. Hurricane/Halloween party it is. Tonight my kids will be stuffing goodie bags full of candy to hide around my friend Tabitha's house--central point for pizza and trick-or-treat departures--so that the kids can hunt for them in the event that bands of wind and rain keep us inside. And I'll be laying in supplies for the following. Which, truth to tell, I'd be doing even if there weren't a threat of stormy weather.

BLOODY ORANGE WEB
Created by Leo Ramirez, Mixologist
Trina Lounge at the Atlantic Hotel, Fort Lauderdale, FL

2 oz Imported GranGala Triple Orange Liqueur®
1 oz Brandy such as Stock 84 VSOP
1 oz Blood Orange Puree*
½ oz Simple Syrup
1-12 oz Bag of Dark Chocolate Chips**
1 Orange Truffle or Chocolate-Dipped Orange Slice
1 Plastic Spider, optional

Using 8 to 10 chocolate chips for one drink, heat in the microwave for 20 seconds until almost melted. Take chips out of the microwave and stir with a spoon until completely melted (this method creates best chocolate consistency for making the web). Place the melted chocolate in a squeeze bottle and ‘draw’ a spider web on the inside of the martini glass (glass can be prepared in advance**). In a Boston shaker, add the rest of the ingredients and shake well. Pour into the decorated martini glass. Garnish with an orange truffle or chocolate dipped orange slice. Plastic spider is optional as an alternative garnish or decoration.

*You can order Blood Orange Puree from www.lepicerie.com. One container is usually all you will need for a significant round of the Bloody Orange Web.

**The chocolate web may look difficult, but it is easy to prepare. You can create a round of chocolate webs in your martini glass ahead of time for easy pouring once your guests arrive. Glasses may be kept in a cool place after web is completed, and this will also help solidify the chocolate.

What a Week

2007-10-28T10:24:00.000-04:00

First, there was the the 2-day wine competition to judge up in Boca. Then, Zoe's Spanish music recital on Wednesday. On Thursday, the wine competiton gala. On Friday, a new restaurant to try, Amoretto, in North Miami. Last night we capped it off by heading to Hollywood Vine to celebrate our friend Stacy's birthday, and met up with more friends Ella and John. As it was also John's birthday, we went across the street to Lola and had a great dinner with them to honor his new wrinkles, too. All this on jet lag, as Jon and I got back from Spain last Sunday evening.

Somehow, this week I also managed to complete the manuscript I was writing for a designer, Bridgett Fernandez; Born Again Vintage will be out from Potter Craft in summer 2008. Good thing, too, because I guess my computer is as tired as I am. The hard drive quit this morning, and though it's been failing intermittently since February, this time I think it's permanent. I hear those telling "clicks of death."

My fault for riding the machine hard and putting it away wet, I suppose. The omens were there yesterday: first a possum died right in front of us on the lawn (the kids were sad but fascinated, gruesome little creatures that they are--Zoe made me take pictures with her camera), and then, on the way to Miami Country Day homecoming, we saw an enormous dead iguana in a river. It looked like a blow-up toy. This morning Jon and I had to dispose of the possum--where are the turkey vultures when you need 'em?--and I went straight upstairs with those vibes all over me to work. Bad idea. Dumb dumb dumb.

Gross as it would have been, I should have gone food shopping like I originally planned. That's my payback for wanting to blog instead of doing my chores!

Sleepless Night Cocktail

2007-10-25T09:36:00.000-04:00

Pulling a party all-nighter? Here's a little help. This invigorating little number, created by Caleb Edwards to celebrate "Sleepless Night," a 24-hour stretch of free arts and entertainment on Miami Beach during the Daylight Savings time change on November 3, is chock-full of antioxidants and, oh yeah, alcohol. Make it yourself or get it at Wish (see below).

Ingredients

2 oz. Acai blueberry vodka
1 oz. Hipnotiq
1 oz. white cranberry juice
1/8 tsp. guarana energy powder or similar blend

Directions

Combine all the ingredients in a shaker filled with ice. Shake, then strain into a martini glass. Serve with frozen blueberries (optional) and enjoy!

For restaurant reservations, please call: (305) 674-9474. Wish is located at The Hotel, 801 Collins Avenue on Miami Beach. Lunch served daily, 11:30 a.m. –3:00 p.m.; Dinner served Tuesday – Sunday, 6:00 p.m. – 11:00 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 6:00 p.m. – midnight. Closed for dinner on Mondays. Valet and municipal parking available. http://www.wishrestaurant.com/.

LEBLON Punch

2007-10-25T09:35:00.001-04:00

Party season is upon us, and the way to slake the thirst of a crowd is with one big bowl of brew. This concoction, courtesy of Leblon, is something of a cross between a sangria and a mulled wine. Whatever—it’s potent. What’s that you say? You don’t have a punch bowl? Well, get your non-retro ass over to any consignment, antique or junk shop in the area. Or even go on eBay. Guaranteed you’ll find one in style and materials ranging from Depression-era milk glass to Art Deco silver plate. Even if you never make punch again, you can always use it for ice to chill your wines.

LEBLON PUNCH

1 bottle LEBLON Cachaça
½ bottle Brandy
¼ bottle Cointreau
½ bottle Amaretto
3 bottles medium-bodied red wine
1 large bottle soda water
½ cup fine white sugar
3 oranges, sliced
20 cherries, pitted
3 apples, chopped
10 cinnamon sticks
8 cloves
10 star anise

Directions
1. Pour all of the ingredients except the soda water into a punch bowl.
2. Let stand for two hours.
3. Just before serving add the soda water and serve over ice in a wine glass.

How to Wring a Neck: NOT FOR THE SQUEAMISH

2007-10-25T08:33:00.000-04:00

Ok, so you didn't grow up on a farm. But you've always had a powerful urge to do in your own chickens. Now you can learn how: Bee Heaven Farm down in the Redland area is offering a series of workshops "that will help you connect more fully with your food."

The first, on November 3, is called "A Bird in Every Pot." There, Bee Heaven owner Marjie Pikarsky will teach you how to prepare poultry for eating, while at the same time helping her cull her excess roosters. (That basically means you'll be dining on capons, not hens, that evening.)

Warning: This is (to put it mildly) a hands-on workshop. Marjie says "you'll be carrying out recommended techniques for butchering, plucking feathers, gutting and cleaning poultry. At the end of the day you will take home your very own ready-to-cook, dressed chicken, prepared by you!"

Workshop fee: $65 per person (includes workshop materials and a Bee Heaven Farm certified organic young chicken).
When: Saturday, November 3rd, 9 am-2 pm, RAIN OR SHINE. A light lunch will be provided.
Where: Bee Heaven Farm 19000 SW 264th St, Redland (1 mile south of the Fruit & Spice Park).
What: Bring an apron, and a small cooler to take your chicken home safely on ice.
Limit: 10 participants.
Deadline: October 30th, or when all spots are filled, whichever is earlier.

Sign up & pay by clicking on this link: www.redlandorganics.com/workshop.htm
If mailing in your check, please RSVP early.
The payment confirmation page has directions to the farm.

A Bit Fried

2007-10-24T12:00:00.000-04:00

EPCOT Food & Wine Festival. Right into a Taste of Barbados. Immediately followed by pinxtos in San Sebastian and a wedding catered in part by Ferran Adria, Juan Mari Arzak and daughter Elena Arzak. And then, judging the 2-day American Fine Wine competition in Boca. I think the travel/dining/drinking lust has been sated for a while.

I know my feet will start to itch and my throat will dry out soon--which is why I've got a rum trip scheduled in St. Croix and a conch competition to judge in Turks and Caicos in November. But until then, I'll be hanging at home. Watch the blog for Miami International Book Fair cookbook author previews, lots of Been There, Going Back? reviews and plenty of kavetches.

After all, home is where the heartburn is.

Pintxos Me, I Must Be Dreaming

2007-10-20T12:52:00.000-04:00

I've wanted to visit San Sebastian, Spain--what some refer to as the birthplace of Spanish cuisine--for about as long as I've been professionally interested in food. And now, thanks to Terry and Mikey, who love to dine and drink at least as much as I do, I'm finally here, celebating their commitment to each other with--what else-- a whole lot of eating. This is one of their favorite places in the world, so they invited about 100 of their closest foodie friends to come enjoy this quaint town with them in honor of their tenth aniversary.

From the moment I stepped out of the taxi, I could see why they like the place. There is food EVERYWHERE here. About every two paces along the streets, little bars offer pintxos (pin-chos), plates of snacks that are as variable as the cobblestones. You stop in one, have a pinxto and a splash of wine or cider, and then move on to the next. You can feast for hours this way. In fact, we did, every day and night we were here (unfortunately, only 3 of them).

Of course, you can eat regular meals, too. But why bother? Not only do you socialize from bar to bar while you search for the next great pinxto, you never get overly full. In fact, I 've actually lost two pounds here. Pintxos me, but do it quick--there's less to go around, and I'm thinking about staying longer!

Good Season

2007-10-15T15:46:00.000-04:00

Did you think, as I did, that the stone crab claws have been pretty crummy the past few years? That's because the double years of triple hurricanes (2004 and 2005) ruined the seasons, which begin Oct. 15 (today) and end in May. Mostly we've been eating frozen claws, if we've been eating them at all. The few fresh claws available have been exorbitant.

That's all in the past. Joe's Stone Crab opens today and unlike the memorable year in 1999 when it was delayed due to Irene (see http://www.miaminewtimes.com/1999-10-21/dining/dish/full), its kitchen is filled with freshly harvested crabs.

Don't live in South Florida? Don't despair.

In honor of an East Coast hurricane-free set-up to season--and therefore no reliance on frozen claws--chefs Rick DeLeon (Fulton’s on the River, Chicago) and Ron Cope (Fulton’s Crab House, Orlando, Fla.)--flew down to Stock Island, near Key West. At 4:30 a.m., they went out to pull up traps from the water with Fishbusters, the largest stone crab fishery.

At 5:30 p.m., they pulled back in to weigh, grade and cook the catch. Then they boarded a flight to Chicago, where they will serve their catch at a 4-course dinner on Oct. 17 at Fulton’s on the River (315 N. LaSalle Street) for $95 per guest. Proceeds from the evening will support Chicago Parkways and their many clean water initiatives in the City of Chicago. (For reservations, contact Natalie: 312-527-1417.)

After that, it's on another plan back to Florida, and another din-din on Oct. 19 with a second fresh catch that will be waiting for them in Orlando at Fulton's Crab House (DOWNTOWN DISNEY®WALT DISNEY WORLD® Resort1670 Buena Vista DriveLake Buena Vista). This 4-course menu is priced at $90 per and benefits the Save the Manatees Club. (For Reservations, contact Marian: 407-828-8996.)

Can't make either? There's always the web: Watch all the antics of the week, caught by the Crab Cam, at http://www.fultonsflightofthecrab.com/.

And then make plans to visit Joe's Stone Crab--or at least call for delivery. Yup, they ship nationwide. www.joesstonecrab.com.

Bush Rum

2007-10-15T10:12:00.000-04:00

You might not know it to look at me, but I have a very slow metabolism. Which is why the non-alcoholic effects of the "bush rum"--a secret concoction of bark and herbs soaking in Mount Gay rum, purportedly an aphrodisiac--that I consumed at the Taste of Barbados event on Friday night didn't hit me until I was home on Saturday. And man, did it hit hard. Remember, this is a skeptic saying this: Bush rum is some powerful good stuff.

Jon thinks the nostalgic turn-on of the Eighties party he dragged me to on Saturday night helped. And it's true I always have felt very sexy in shoulder pads and doorknocker earrings, dancing to the soundtrack from Pretty in Pink and the like. Really, who doesn't?

But we're talking about having had a day from hell previously: I'd spent the morning on a safari jeep tour, bouncing all over the twisty, windy roads of the island in search of rum shops. Then I was whisked to the airport on bumpy back roads and shuttled back to Miami on a hot, turbulent flight. I was so motion-sick I had vertigo. I couldn't have felt less "in the mood."

Yet there I was, a few hours later, feeling the bush rum like a hot flash. I've got to find out what was in that stuff. And get some on my bar shelf, pronto. It beats Tuaca by a twisty, windy, bumpy Barbados mile.

Lobster Alive

2007-10-10T12:05:00.000-04:00

Frankly I prefer my lobsters dead and on a plate. But I got them both ways last night at Lobster Alive, a tin roof shabeen on Barbados that also features an outstanding homegrown jazz trio (trombone, stand-up bass, acoustic guitar). Proprietor Art Taylor, a native Australian who fell in love with the island when crewing a yacht back in 1967, picks up the spiny specimens himself in his own Cherokee plane from the Grenadines and keeps 'em in a pool at the back of the eatery.

You can choose your own or allow the staff to do it for you, then select your rock lobster (insert B-52's trill) grilled and served with butter or done thermidor style (in a wine AND brandy sauce). Either preparation, well, rocks.

Initially, Taylor started the biz as a wholesale venture, but pretty soon folks started to ask for a beer or a takeaway while they waited for their orders to be ready, and "that forced the restaurant," he says. Good thing! Usually we food writers coach statements such as the one I'm about to make in terms of "this is one of the best I've had in recent memory..." just to cover ourselves in case we have a better something-or-other tomorrow. But I'll say flat-out, bar none, this was the best spiny lobster tail I've ever had--succulent, flavorful and absolutely satiating. I never like to compare tropical lobsters with cold-water lobsters because to me they are entirely different creatures. But as experiences go, this one rivals anything I've had with a Maine or Nova Scotia crustacean.

There, I've admitted it. Trouble is, I'll probably have more spiny lobster tonight, and I've left myself no wiggle room. Well, I suppose I could have bigger problems. Even my delayed luggage has finally arrived, and I took a really loooong shower.

Around the World in Two Days

2007-10-08T22:21:00.000-04:00

So much to say, so little time. Just returned from Orlando, where I was invited to check out the annual Food & Wine Fest at Epcot. The group I was with insisted the name of the park really means "Everybody Comes Out Tired," but during this time of year, I'm pretty sure it's "Everybody Comes Out Trashed." Every country in the world showcase features an extra little set-up honoring its viticulture and a treasured dish or two, and you can walk around and buy $3, roughly 2-oz tastes of each country's national wines and a few snacks. The pours seemed more generous than that, though, everywhere except Canada--but then, a thimbleful of ice wine is all you really want, anyway. Was a nice contrast to the cheddar cheese soup, too.

Whatever. Point is, I'm off to the Caribbean tomorrow for the Taste of Barbados festival, so I've gotta get my rum chops on. I tell ya, this isn't a bad job if you can get it. Although last time I was on that island, I got suckered into eating "melts of the flying fish" with my friend Carmen Gonzalez, who by the way just opened her new spot in NYC, Lucy of Gramercy (see formal press release below). Neither of us knew what they were, aside from what the menu said: "deep-fried roe." Ha! They turned out to be more like sacs of roe. Actually, sperm. In fact, they were sort of like fish testicles, if you want to get right down to it. Though deep-fried anything isn't all that bad, right?

Like I said, I'm looking forward to the rum.

Warning: The following is an official press release. Any and/or all mistakes are someone else's!

New American Cuisine Gets a Puerto Rican Accent

NEW YORK (October 2007) – Celebrated restaurateur Phil Suarez has enlisted acclaimed chef Carmen Gonzalez, former Executive Chef/Owner of Carmen the Restaurant in Coral Gables, FL, to lead the kitchen at Lucy of Gramercy [35 East 18th Street, 212-475-5829]. As Executive Chef, Gonzalez brings the soulful flavors of Puerto Rico into the fine dining context, creating a sophisticated cuisine that is uniquely her own.

Puerto Rico’s culinary idiom is deeply tied to the island’s historical and ecological landscape. Combining the flavors indigenous to Puerto Rico with those brought by Spanish explorers, Gonzalez pays tribute to her native land by accenting New American dishes with a spectrum of flavors, ranging from tropical roots and tubers to salted cod, tamarind, and sour orange. The result is a cuisine that celebrates the traditional flavors of Puerto Rico presented with an artful use of texture, color and technique.

A meal at Lucy of Gramercy begins in typical Puerto Rican fashion with a sampling of Picadera, a nod to the island’s tradition of street food. From Alcapurrias de Guisado de Pollo with Salsita de Pique (grated yuca stuffed with stewed chicken) to succulent Pork Bites with Chimichurri sauce, selections are perfect for sharing and are a convivial introduction to the meal.

Gonzalez’s signature Puerto Rican touches are showcased in First Plate selections such as Peekytoe Crabmeat and Avocado Terrine with Key Lime Mayonnaise and Arañitas, Seared Yellowfin Tuna with Malanga Mash and Coconut Gastrique, and Key West Shrimp and Sweet Plantain Pionono with Sofrito Sauce.

Main Plates at Lucy of Gramercy run the gamut—from deep, robust meats paired with tropically minded trimmings to fresh seafood brightened by citrus-based sauces and flavorful broths. Choose from a juicy Pork Tenderloin served atop Gandules Guisados with Sweet Plantain Fufú; an elegant dish of Slow Braised Boneless Wagyu Beef Short Ribs with Funché is dressed with an Island Mojito sauce; and a delicately cooked Pan Seared Red Snapper is served with White Water Clams, Leeks and Chorizo. A selection of sides—Yuca and Roasted Garlic Mofongo, Crispy Tostones de Platano with Mojo Dipping Sauce, and Warm Wilted Baby Spinach with Toasted Garlic and Fresh Lemon Juice—are also available.

Gonzalez completes the meal with her selection of desserts, which focus on the interplay of seasonal flavors and traditional tastes. Specialties include Warm Mango Bread Pudding with Passion Fruit-Mint Sorbet, Warm Coconut Rice Pudding Tamale with Cajeta Sauce, Rum Raisins and Salted Cashews, and her signature dessert, Chef Carmen’s Flan with Caramel Sauce.

Like the menu, Lucy of Gramercy’s cocktail list reinterprets the traditional, offering guests libations such as the Pisco B with Pisco, thyme syrup, lemon juice and agave nectar; the Spanish Harlem with Maker’s Mark, Angostura Bitters, Garvey Pedro Xímenez Sherry; and the Cavalina with cactus pear puree, lime juice, Cava and a hint of Milagro tequila. The wine list is international in scope, presenting selections from diverse regions with an emphasis on Latin American producers.

Reminiscent of an inviting hacienda with its airy space, terra cotta ceiling tiles and rough-hewn wood beams, Lucy of Gramercy’s new design reflects Suarez and Gonzalez’s distinct personal styles. The whitewashed walls and blonde wood floors enliven both the main dining room and the lounge area. Chairs are natural wood with loose vanilla linens and large-scale still-life paintings depicting vibrant tropical fruit are peppered throughout the space. The bar is flanked by a lively grid of orange, yellow and red tiles and surrounded by plush seating strewn with richly hued pillows—an ideal space to settle in for an intimate cocktail with friends.

From a passionate and focused chef to an attentive and knowledgeable staff, a vibrant and breezy new redesign and a menu composed of deeply satisfying Puerto Rican-inspired dishes, Lucy of Gramercy provides an ideal dining experience that is both authentic and memorable.

Lucy of Gramercy’s dining room seats 110, with 40 seats in the lounge, and is open for dinner nightly: Sunday – Thursday, 6PM-11PM, and Friday and Saturday, 6PM-11:30PM. The restaurant is located on the first floor of the ABC Home & Carpet Building at 35 East 18th Street in Manhattan. For reservations, please call 212-475-5829 or visit www.lucyofgramercy.com

Marinheiro

2007-10-04T17:37:00.000-04:00

The Place: Marinheiro in the old La Broche space. 1155 Brickell Bay Drive, Miami (305) 377-4442 http://www.marinheirorestaurant.com/

The Atmosphere: White tablecloth, business attire. Redone from the La Broche days and pretty, with waiters who appear attentive but forget your requests, an airhead hostess and no valet at the valet stand. Had to park on the street in the muddy construction site while it poured on me.

The Meal: Ordered the Portuguese "duck rice" specialty. It was amazing how it could be greasy and crunchy at the same time. Seems like they added olive oil and crisped the rice in the oven too much. Even the chunks of duck meat were dry and flavorless. Also sampled the goat cheese in puff pastry with walnuts, which was honey-sweet and appealing but tasted like ricotta, lacking the goat milk "bite," and clams in garlic and butter, which had a bit too much oil to recommend them. Salt-crusted fish was nicely filleted tableside, however, and was indisputably fresh--a good choice for a light, if bland, lunch.

The Bottom Line: Going back? Only if someone else insists.

Thinking Pink

2007-10-02T09:59:00.000-04:00

I'm sure if you look hard enough you'll find a million and one ways to support breast cancer awareness and research during the month of October, which is official Pink Ribbon month. But sometimes it helps when it's personal. For longtime patrons of Grapevine Gourmet, it got personal when Grapevine owner Carol Frieser died from the disease this past summer.

I didn't know Carol well--I was just another customer, and not a very regular one at that--but I did have one amusing encounter with her. When writing a story on gourmet markets, I hauled up to the Grapevine to check out the boutique's latest goods (and gleefully spend my budget, if truth be known).

The Grapevine, at least in theory, has always reminded me of the first real job I held at Don's in Livingston, NJ, an erstwhile gourmet cheese, bakery and deli attached to a longtime restaurant. It's the place that imprinted the food business on me for good. And when I spied the chocolate-covered gummi bears by the Grapevine register, I had a flashback to Don's, where I used to repackage them from big containers into smaller bags for sale. Honestly, I could have wept from the nostalgia. (Not really.)

Of course I bought the darn things, and felt obligated to explain why I'd want the candy alongside bottles of expensive marinades and flavored olive oils to Carol, who was ringing me up. She stopped short. "You have experience in a place like this?" she asked. "Four years," I nodded. "You want a job?"

Given my true purpose in checking out her store, I blurted out, "Uh, I already have one." Of course, she asked me what I did. What could I say? I was supposed to be discreet and anonymous. I told her I was a mom, and that it was the busiest and most important job in the world.

Hey, I only spoke the truth. If you don't agree, gag yourself with a chocolate-covered gummi bear. And go support Carol's memory with something sweet.

GRAPEVINE CELEBRATES BREAST CANCER AWARENESS MONTH BY DONATING PARTIAL PROCEEDS FROM SPECIAL DESSERTS, DINNERS TO CAUSE

Plantation, Fla. – (September 27, 2007) – In honor of Breast Cancer Awareness Month, Grapevine Gourmet is offering patrons several ways to support the fight against breast cancer while enjoying delectable cuisine and scrumptious desserts.

During the entire month of October, $5 of the price of every dinner entrée at the fine dining establishment Grapevine Bistro will be donated to South Florida’s Memorial Hospital Breast Cancer Foundation. After dinner, guests will receive a complimentary bite-size “pink ribbon” cupcake, comprising delicious vanilla cake, vanilla frosting and a pink chocolate ribbon on top. Open Friday evenings from 6 – 10 p.m. and Saturday evenings from 5:30 -10 p.m., Grapevine Bistro features exquisite island- and Latin-influenced cuisine, plus an extensive international fine wine and champagne list.

Grapevine Gourmet, widely recognized for its signature desserts, is also offering “pink ribbon” cupcakes during October. Available in two sizes, the sweet indulgences are sold for $1.50 and $3. Part of the proceeds from each cupcake will go to the Memorial Hospital Breast Cancer Foundation.

Customers can also show their support by enjoying Grapevine’s regularly-sold 12-pack of chocolate raviolis topped with a pink chocolate ribbon. For years, Grapevine has donated a portion of proceeds from each $12 pack to Susan G. Komen for the Cure, the world’s largest breast cancer organization.

Grapevine staff is proud to make all donations in homage of the memory of Grapevine founder and owner Carol Frieser, who lost her battle against breast cancer in June 2007. Along with her husband Paul, Carol owned Grapevine for 32 years.

Grapevine Gourmet, which launched in 1975 as a small shop featuring fine wine, cheese, candies and coffees, now features a newly-remodeled 50-seat restaurant, the evening fine dining establishment Grapevine Bistro, acclaimed professional gourmet catering services, off-site events catering and planning, take-out service, hors d’oeuvres-to-go for home entertaining, specialty desserts, gourmet gift baskets, and individual gourmet items available for purchase. It is located at 256 South University Drive, Plantation, Fla., 33324. For more information on Grapevine Catering & Events, please call 954-475-2210 or 866-539-2210. For information about Grapevine Gourmet Cuisine’s foods and services, visit http://www.grapevinegourmet.com/.

Bond, James Bond Wine Dinner at North One 10

2007-09-30T13:29:00.001-04:00

Sometimes I just have to applaud a sense of humor. Chef Dewey, here's at least one hand clapping. Would love to be at this one, but I'm off to Spain that eve. I'm sure someone will be happy to take my place for the:

Bond, James Bond Wine Dinner at North One 10

From Russia with Love
Corn Cakes, Caviar, Crème Fraiche
Mini Borscht and Stone Crab Shots
Grilled Octopussy Skewer
paired with Shaken Not Stirred, of course!

Live and Let Die
Porcini Seared Scallops, Calabaza Mash
paired with A Flute Darling

Shaken, Not Stirred Salad Of
Artichokes, Roaring Forties Blue, Smoked Duck
Beefsteak Tomatoes
paired with Liquid Gold

Course with Steel Jaws
A Liaison of Grilled Tenderloin and Rare Tuna
Dr. Goodhead Dual Sauces of Truffle and Venom
Quinoa Pan Cake
paired with A Big Bloody Red

Never Say Never Again
Pussy Galore Medley Of
Cats Claw, Golden Gun Pudding and a Message from Doctor No
paired with A Sip of Sauterne

Bullet the Date: Wednesday, October 17, 2007
7:30 Reception 8:00 Dinner
North One 10 Restaurant
11052 Biscayne Blvd, Miami, Fl 33161
Reservations Required 305-893-4211
$85.00 per person, non inclusive of taxes and gratuity
www.northone10.com

Official Taste America Cocktail

2007-09-30T13:21:00.000-04:00

What is it with the Brits and their cucumbers? Whatever--this one tasted pretty good, as a drink meant to toast James Beard should, I guess. Then again, anything with Plymouth Gin tastes pretty good to me. :-)

Official Taste America Cocktail

Recipe
3 slices cucumber
½ bunch mint
2 oz. Plymouth Gin
½ oz. POM Wonderful pomegranate juice
¾ oz. fresh squeezed lime juice
1 oz. simple syrup

Directions

1. Muddle the mint and 2 slices of cucumber in a cocktail shaker.
2. Add ice cubes, Plymouth Gin, pomegranate juice, simple syrup and lime juice.
3. Fill a Collins glass with crushed ice; shake and strain mixture into glass.
4. Top with a splash of soda water and garnish with a cucumber slice.

Tasting America's Health Care System

2007-09-30T12:42:00.000-04:00

So the Taste America event on Friday night at Azul, honoring the 20th anniversary of the James Beard Foundation, was really cool for awhile. Got to zip up a sexy black vintage cocktail dress I haven't fit into in about five years. Got to schmooze a little with Norman Van Aken, whose new joint, Tavern N Town at Beachside Resort in Key West, is opening in two weeks, he says. Got to suck down some Plymouth gin drinks made with pomegranate juice, lime juice and cucumbers. (What it is with those Brits and their cukes, I'll never know. See Dishtillery for recipe.)

Then Jon was called into the hospital on an emergency. So right after Cindy Hutson's jerk-rubbed Sonoma foie gras course, just as Mark Militello's crisp-skinned wild striped bass was being served, I had to head for home so I could take care of the kids while he went to work. It was an "ouch" moment for sure.

It was also a theme that would continue for the weekend. On Saturday he stood me up for lunch at Uva 69 when he was trapped at Sinai's ER, and Saturday eve he ditched me with the kids at Rainforest Cafe when he got called in for a "brain attack" at Aventura.

On the way home, I advised Zoe never to marry a doctor. She informed me she doesn't plan to. "I'm going to marry a rock star," she said.

Oh yeah, lesson learned.

Hong Kong Halo

2007-09-28T14:23:00.000-04:00

If you were at Table 8 last night, you might have thought the Perry Ellis show, part of Ocean Drive Fashion Week, was the big event. Yummy men, for the most part, though I wish the shag haircut would go the way of the shag rug. NOT a good look for most XYs. (Though male models? I don't know. XXYs?)

Or maybe you thought it was the Dunhill Smoking Tent, where they were giving out free ciggies and engraving cancer-stick cases as long as you signed a waiver. (And making the strongest and oddest Ouzo-based drink I ever tasted. I haven't been techincally "allowed" to drink Ouzo since Greece 15 years ago, when unmentionable things happened, so we won't mention this to Jon, right?). Quite the un-PC fun! Reminded me of "Marlboro Nights" that I had to host when I was a cocktail waitress at the Stephen James Steak House in Porter Square, Mass.--a throwback of a grimy steak house and lounge that is NOTHING like the chef-driven havens we're experiencing today.

You'd be wrong, of course. The highlight of the eve was inside, where there was a fire on the bar. Actually, it was a drink on fire, what the owner called a "Hong Kong Halo," named for a friend's nightclub where it was invented. On the bottom was a martini glass, filled with Galliano, Kahlua and Frangelico. On top of that, a balanced stack of a few upside-down glasses of different shapes and sizes. He poured Sambuca over the top and lit it up; whoever was drinking the mixture on the bottom had to suck it down through a straw before the flames raced to the contents and ignited them, too.

Thinking law suit? Yeah, me too. As to that, we participated of our own free will (and one of my posse might not have some of her eyebrows right now), but if they're planning on selling these babies--the owner wants to charge $60 for 'em--I suggest he get a lawyer to write something up.

And fyi, I would have great pictures of a dude named Essene doing a bang-up job of tackling the stack, but Lesley didn't email them to me properly before deleting them from her Crackberry. (Yes, you get mentioned by name for that eff-up.)

Guess a few Dunhills, some Ouzo and a blinding Hong Kong Halo or two will do that to you.

Michael Mina Means Business

2007-09-27T09:36:00.000-04:00

Well, not yet he doesn't. But he will when he opens his Bourbon Steak in The Fairmont Turnberry Isle Resort & Club come December. I got a sneak preview of the goods at the MIAMI mag launch party, which also happened to be a Friends of South Beach Wine & Food Festival event, and based on what are essentially appetizers and side dishes--crab Louis lettuce cups, lobster "corn dogs" and French fries dipped in truffled mayo, plus hamburger "sliders" that people were actually fighting over--my guess is that this interpetive, chef-driven steak house fare is going to be impressive.

Meanwhile, I've heard folks questioning why a chef of Mina's stature would "bury" himself in what is essentially a private club. The sad disaster that was Larry Forgione at An American Place in The Jockey Club comes to mind.

Well, the truth is that like An American Place, Bourbon will be the very first restaurant on the property that is available to the public. But unlike the Jockey Club, a community that didn't embrace Forgione's restaurant, Turnberry wants Mina's cachet. The entire resort (a.k.a. a hotel in addition to the country club), which seems to be going a more public route in general, has very recently undergone serious MONIED renovation, and is some gorgeous! It needs a restaurant to reflect that, and Mina's longtime design partner, Tony Chi, is working hard to make it all happen.

Finally, Mina is a chef who is used to being part of larger operations--he's open in Vegas (Stripsteak in Mandalay Bay) and Atlantic City (Seablue in the Borgata) casinos, for instance. This is a position where he's perfectly comfortable.

As for the next implied question--Mina'll be leaving Bourbon in very good hands when he's off checking on his other establishments and debuting new venues. (Chicago is next on the list.) Executive chef Andrew Rothschild is formerly a longtime leader at The Forge, so be at ease: The man knows his meat.

A New Direction

2007-09-24T09:11:00.000-04:00

Everyone who knows me has learned by now not to trust my sense of direction. It's nonexistent. But I'm weirdly reliable if you do the opposite of what I say. For example, when I told Jon last night to make a left on 163rd from NE 6th St on our way to Jumbo Chinese Restaurant, he said, "Why should I listen to you?" I replied, "You shouldn't. My instinct says go left, so you should actually go right." Of course by then he was so confused he took a left, and we had to turn around because he really should have made a right. (See what I mean?)

Then we opened the door to Jumbo's and I immediately turned to the right to walk into the dining room and instead hit a wall. But in this case my instincts, as they are when it comes to Chinese food in particular, hadn't been misleading me. Jumbo's has been renovated! (3 months ago, said the server, and he also confided it only took 3 weeks. Wouldn't you like the name of that contractor.) The dining room, a handsome and bright compilation of light woods and big fish tanks filled with your dinner-to-be, is now completely to the LEFT of the door.

Talk about disorienting! Fortunately, the authentic Chinese menu, which our server handed us with the regular Chinese-American menu, went a long way toward re-Orient-ing us.

Coq Au Vin

2007-09-23T10:22:00.000-04:00

Some time ago, during one of my quarterly appearances on Linda Gassenheimer's LRN radio show, a caller asked me where to find a good coq au vin. Happens to be a favorite of mine, too, but it's hard to locate in not-so-Gallic Miami, so I knew to give the standard answer--try Cafe Pastis (www.cafepastis.com) in South Miami or Le Bouchon du Grove in Coconut Grove. They don't generally carry the traditional dish on their respective menus, but maybe they'll run it as a special. More likely, though, you'll be happily distracted by such yummies as braised duck legs in a light black currant sauce at Pastis or chicken fricassee with a morel mushroom risotto and parmesan biscuit at Bouchon.

I'd like to amend my reply now, thanks to Two Chefs, who just sent me their new menu (dirty pool doing it before I've eaten breakfast). Coq au vin lovers, rejoice: There's a lovely version on Chef Jan Jorgensen's list that's got me making reservations. Here it is, in his words, because I couldn't say it better myself. I'm including the price so you can see that Two Chefs, unlike the newer high-end restaurants sprouting up around town, is holding on to some semblance of sanity.

Coq au Vin
Button mushrooms, pearl onions, bacon, white wine, black truffle mashed potatoes

26.50

The Definition of True Love

2007-09-22T12:39:00.000-04:00

My mother-in-law just called to tell me her version of true love. "I'm picking out the celery for my son," she said. Yes, she was removing every speck of celery from the Flakowitz tuna salad she had bought for break fast, simply because my husband won't touch any deli salad if the dreaded green stuff is in it. I had to practically threaten her with bodily harm to get her to stop. (Not really. I adore her and wouldn't lay a hand on her.)

But really. He could always eat a bagel with cream cheese. It's not like he's required to have the tuna.

Oy, marrying a mama's boy is such a double-edged sword. On the one hand, this type of guy knows how to treat a girl. But sifting shreds of celery from tuna will never be a standard I can live up to! Then again, I've got ways of showing true love that Mama can't keep up with ;-) So I guess it's all good.

Continued Honors

2007-09-22T10:26:00.000-04:00

Aieee! Dale LoSasso says her and chef-husband Dewey's restaurant, North One 10, was actually first to announce they'd be extending Miami Spice. They're doing it until November. I'd search my old e-mails for the info but I'm too weak from fasting even though it's only 11 a.m., so whatever, mea culpa. I owe her a Rosa Mexicano frozen pomegranate margarita. (She's very specific in her tastes.) I'm happy to pay up. Some of the most delish brain freeze in the city. ANYWAY... check out www.north110.com for details. There's also Sunday Spice and Ladies Spice programs there, where you can get comp glasses of wine with the prix fixe menus. Fun stuff, and such a bah-gain!

In THIRD place, then, are China Grill Management restaurants, where the Spice is keeping on until November 18. China Grill does lunch only; the others do din-din menus.

But perhaps even more attractive is what's happening there--at Tuscan Steak, China Grill and Social Miami--in October, where it's Crab and Lobster Month and guests at these restaurants will be "offer[ed] the world in a shell." Apparently, "in celebration of the beginning of the stone crab season, all high-ranking crustaceans are gathering to celebrate daily changing crab and lobster specials paired with refreshing Piper- Heidsieck Champagne." Think lobster and zucchini risotto with lemon fennel pesto at Tuscan; crab and mushroom potstickers with Napa cabbage and sake-Madeira sauce at China Grill; and crab and lobster pot pie at Social Miami. Who knew? Well, now you do. Tuscan Steak, 433 Washington Ave., Miami Beach, 305-534-2233; China Grill, 404 Washington Ave., Miami Beach, 305-534-2211; Social Miami at Sagamore, 1671 Collins Ave., Miami Beach, 786-593344.

And finally, in second place of the Thanksgiving announcement polls, give it up for... The Forge. Chef Andrew Swersky has created a menu incorporating traditional Thanksgiving dishes with The Forge’s signature cuisine for $69 per person (excluding tax and gratuity). If you've ever dined at this particular over-the-top establishment, you know that this price really rocks. Relevant info: The Forge is located at 432 Forty-First Street in Miami Beach. Reservations are highly recommended by calling 305.538.8533. Visit www.theforge.com.

And the Award Goes to...

2007-09-21T12:46:00.000-04:00

...Vix, for being the first restaurant this year to extend the Miami Spice special for a third month. Check out the $35 spice journey menu, prepared by executive chef Vincent Muraco, throughout the month of October. Reservations can be made by calling (305) 779-8888 or by visiting www.hotelvictorsouthbeach.com

... The Conrad Miami's Atrio, for being the first establishment to announce its Thanksgiving plans. (Yes, already. On Sept. 21 for Nov. 22.) As the centerpiece of the hotel’s newly re-designed Level 25, which encompasses The Bar, a sophisticated new cocktail/pintxos (tapas) lounge and The Room, a private event space, Atrio and executive chef Michael Gilligan will present a special four course menu that include turkey carved tableside. Priced at $70.00 per person for adults, $35.00 for children under the age 15 and at no cost to children 5 and under. Prices do not include tax and gratuity. Available for lunch 11:30 a.m. – 2:30 p.m.; the regular menu will be served in the restaurant that evening from 6:30 p.m. – 10:30 p.m. Valet parking available, reservations highly suggested at 305-503-6529.

... The Sonesta Bayfront Hotel Coconut Grove, home of Panorama Restaurant & Lounge, known for its Peruvian cuisine, for being the first hotel to change its name (from the less descriptive Sonesta Hotel & Suites Coconut Grove) without losing its identity. Once a Sonesta, always a Sonesta. Hear that, Regent? For more info, visit www.sonesta.com/coconutgrove.

Got $400?

2007-09-21T12:38:00.000-04:00

More importantly, are you willing to part with it? If so, check out this special dinner below. Okay, okay, I exaggerated a bit. It only costs $390. But then, the valet will surely run you a ten-spot, right?

And no, that's not a typo below. This dinner really is limited to 20 people. I checked. Larry Carrino, media rep for it, says tix are still available. First come... you know the shtick.

AZUL TO HOST EXCLUSIVE OPUS ONE DEBUT HARVEST WINE DINNER

Azul at Mandarin Oriental, Miami will host a special winemaker dinner on Thursday, October 4, 2007 at 7:30 p.m., pairing a magnificent five-course menu designed by chef Clay Conley with Opus One wines.

In 1978 Baron Philippe de Rothschild and Robert Mondavi sat together at Chateau Mouton Rothschild and created the dream of Opus One: a single red wine of absolute quality that would reflect the personality and character of both partners. Released with great fanfare in 1984, Opus One has since grown to world wide recognition.

This dinner, limited to 20 guests, will present the 2004 Vintage for the first time in Florida. Co-hosting the event with Azul’s sommelier Cynthia Betancourt will be Opus One’s France Posener. The five-course dinner menu, priced at $390.00 per person (all-inclusive) follows:

First Course
Seared scallop Carpaccio, Citrus Vinaigrette, Avocado, Osetra Caviar
2003 Robert Mondavi, “Tokalon Vineyard”, Reserve Fume Blanc, Napa Valley, California

Second Course
Veal Tortellini, Black Truffle, Alaskan King Crab, Tarragon
2001 Opus One, Napa Valley, California

Third Course
Seared Japanese Wagyu Beef, Braised Short Rib, Onion Puree, Mushroom Salad
2003 Opus One, Napa Valley, California

Fourth Course
Campo de Montalban Cheese
2004 Opus One, Napa Valley, California

Fifth Course
Fruit of the Forest Spring Rolls with a Raspberry Foam and Lemongrass Dipping Sauce
2005 Robert Mondavi Moscato D’Oro, Napa Valley, California

Azul is located at Mandarin Oriental, Miami, 500 Brickell Key Drive. For reservations contact Alejandra Torres at (305) 913-3840. Valet parking available; all major credit cards accepted.

A Girl Named Lolita

2007-09-21T11:46:00.001-04:00

Hard to resist a girl named Lolita. Even more difficult when that Lolita is a whimsical creature who hand-paints wine and martini glasses, then writes drink recipes to match their themes. Hint: The recipe's on the bottom of the glass for safekeeping. She's launching a "Miami-tini" in January, but if that's too long to wait, check out her complete catalog at http://www.designsbylolita.com/. And here's a sample to get you going in time for Halloween. In my book, it's never too early to start planning how many "Wicked Witches" you'll be drinking.

Cat's Meow

2007-09-21T11:39:00.000-04:00

Being feline-friendly, this drink hits me the right way from the get-go. But it also strikes me as something my friend Jen S. might like. She of the Malibu persuasion has been having an effect on me, making me reconsider my wine-only stances on occasion. Don't feel like mixing this sweet-tart tropical beauty yourself? Get the big cats to do it over at Jaguar Ceviche Spoon Bar & Latam Grill (3067 Grand Avenue Coconut Grove, 305.444.0216) for only $5.45 Monday-Friday from 4pm-7pm.

Cat’s Meow

1 1/2 oz dark rum
1 1/2 oz Malibu Coconut rum
1 oz orange juice
1 oz pineapple juice
1 oz passion fruit juice
1/2 oz grenadine
Splash of soda

1. Shake all the ingredients except the soda over ice.
2. Add splash of soda.
3. Drink and eat:It's purr-fect, I'm told, with a complimentary taste of “Classic Peruano” Ceviche (see below). Yup, a spoonful of pickled fish will make the kitty's favorite medicine go down every time.

Cuca Fresca Tanga

2007-09-21T11:34:00.000-04:00

So you missed Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Miami Swim. Darn, me too. Fortunately for all of us, the Cuca Fresca Cachaca folks, who sponsored the revealing event, sent me the recipe for the custom cocktail they created for the debut of swimwear designer Cia Maritima’s 2008 collection. Naturally, they named it the "Tanga," after the Portuguese word for a thong-style bikini bottom. Fine with me--I would SO rather drink one than wear one.

CUCA FRESCA TANGA

1.5 oz. Cuca Fresca Cachaça
1 oz. Cointreau
1 oz. Cranberry Juice
5 oz. Fresh Lime Juice
Splash of simple syrup

Combine all ingredients in a shaker filled with ice, shake well and strain into a chilled martini glass, garnish with a fresh lime slice.

Charleston Grill at Charleston Place

2007-09-21T11:33:00.001-04:00

Charleston Grill at Charleston Place: French-Influenced Lowcountry Cuisine

Chef: Bob WaggonerPublisher: Gibbs Smith; hardcover; 224 pages; $29.95

The name isn't imaginative, but it gets the point across: These recipes offer the California-born, French-trained Waggoner's take on Carolina cooking. I've dined at his place and it's fantastic, and I was certainly expecting something more complicated from him in terms of instruction. But this book, which includes his own photos, is surprisingly user-friendly. Recipes such as "He-Crab Soup," "Wild Turkey Salad," and "Sauteed Carolina River Prawns with an Herbed Creme Fraiche" only take up half a page, leaving plenty of white space if you're inclined to take notes on what worked for you and what didn't. And it's pretty all-inclusive, from breakfast dishes to dessert.So, bottom line--can you cook from this book, or should you just dine at the restaurant instead? If you ever get the opportunity, definitely dine, but meanwhile:

Cook.

Ouzo Out, Ouzo In

2007-09-21T09:45:00.000-04:00

I was disappointed to note, on my way to the Brancott/Stoneleigh tasting last night at Nemo, a "for lease" sign on Ouzo's, a good Greek restaurant in North Beach. I was also surprised, because the place was well-liked and did what I thought was a good, steady business.

Then, in what can only be described as culinary ESP, my friend Dindy, who Jon and I were meeting after our wine tasting was over, texted to suggest that we gather at... Ouzo's. Turns out the place had moved to South Beach, occupying the former Madiba space. Now called Ouzo's Bistro (http://www.ouzosmiamibeach.com), it had opened just a few days before.

Even more kismet? The sauvignon blanc on the wine list there: Brancott. We ordered a bottle and continued the offshore theme of the evening. Interestingly, Brancott is launching new varietals on our shores: Pinot Grigio, Riesling, Gewurtztraminer. I suspect they also might pair well with Greek cuisine, which leans toward garlic, lemon and seafood, and am looking forward to finding out.

A Hotel by Any Other Name

2007-09-20T14:47:00.000-04:00

We're used to restaurants changing owners, chefs, menus and just about everything else on a seeming whim down here. But hotels? After all, the Delano is still the Delano, the National still the National, the Sagamore still the Sagamore...

The Regent South Beach, however, is no longer such. The hotel is now called Hotel Vincci South Beach after The Regent backed out of ownership last week. Nice of The Regent to give it that dedicated 8-month try, don't ya think? Govind Armstrong and his Table 8 eatery remain hosts of the lobby. So no worries on that score. Yet. Who knows, in the end, what temporaneous direction Hotel Vincci will want to take?

Meanwhile, The Regent Bal Harbour, which was supposed to open this past summer, now looks to be pushed 'til December. The signature restaurant there is still under wraps, though I've heard rumors about such names as David Burke being asked to come down and consult. Hmm. Just have to wait and see. And wait. And wait.

Obit for Restaurant 8 1/2

2007-09-18T21:29:00.000-04:00

I had my suspicions when Jon and I stopped there before what was to be (unbeknownst to me then) my surprise 39 1/2 birthday dinner. Damn, Jon must've loved the symmetry when I suggested killing some cocktails and time at this restaurant in the Clinton Hotel, which is just across the street from Mr. Chu's, which is where we were meeting, supposedly, his colleagues.

But when we got there, the interior doors were locked, even though the tables were set for dinner and everything looked rather normal, albeit empty, inside. We had to have wine at Grazie a couple of blocks south instead before moseying over to what would turn out to be my shindig.

Alas, my friend Charlie, who had repped the small, contemporary venue and its chef-owner Jason McClain at one point, just confirmed that "poor Jason has shuttered the restaurant." While I never visited as often as I wanted to--due to professional obligations, it's impossible for me to return to any eatery as much I want to--I actually ate at 8 1/2 more frequently than I have places in my own neighborhood.

Usually I went for brunch or lunch, meeting friends or business partners. The fare was always inventive, tasty and fresh, with interesting Moroccan and Middle Eastern influences that shown in fish and lamb dishes. Nothing was done, as the appellation might have suggested, in half-measures. (Of course it was named for its middle-of-block status between 8th and 9th streets.) Chef Jason and his GM partner even grew their own eggplants, peppers and herbs in pots on the front and back patios, using the frillier plants for centerpieces.

Chef Jason, I hope to see your full resurrection soon. Perhaps even before my next half-birthday, hey? We're not getting any younger here, and if my husband, who is younger than me by a bare three months, has his way, I'm going to be painfully aware of how I keep getting older than him in each and every increment possible. I'd prefer to be eating good food while doing so. It'll help me keep my temper, and quite possibly save his life.

How to Make a Pisco Sour Sweet

2007-09-18T20:54:00.000-04:00

More Thoughts on Eggs Sazerac

2007-09-16T14:20:00.000-04:00

Laura Cullen, proprietor of Clarke's on Miami Beach, tells me that her mom invented eggs Sazerac. It's a scrumptious combo of scrambled eggs, chunks of ham, cream cheese and Hollandaise sauce on top of a toasted English muffin that she fortified herself with when eight months preggers with Laura and had to cook brunch in Laura's dad's restaurant, Sazerac House in NYC's Greenwich Village.

Another bite of lore: Apparently, the first person who sampled the dish when Laura launched brunch at Clarke's on Labor Day weekend said something to the effect of, "Can't wait to eat this when I have a hangover."

I can avow that, coupled with a nicely horseradished bloody Mary, it was both a PMS and hair-of-dog antidote.

So there you have it. Recommended by the hormonal and hungover. You know it's not a lie.